george 1100

Cheap 38's is going to be way better than 36's

Might have something to do with the dot head. From memory the valves are slightly longer so maybe the cam locations are slightly higher. Ive never done a dot head but plenty here have. Maybe you could machine down the cam chain roller spacers

Yes

I can't remember exactly but might be a cam sprocket thing. Where did those cams come from?

Good idea. I'll check that out. Wound them out only 1/4 from 'close' and she's idling very nicely. Went for a ride and power comes on linear and pulls very hard. Also starts first go with a bit of choke only. With the 17.5 pilot jets, it was was a bit stubborn to start. Way better now.

Been trying to fine tune my 711 Slingshot as its been running rich at idle. Floats are all set at 17mm. With 17.5 pilot jets, even with the screws 1/4 turn out, still ran rich on idle. Change the pilot jets to 15's and am getting a good idle at 1/2 turn out. As I was trying to find the sweet spot, I decided to wind them all the way in and the bike still idled, not as good as 1/2 turns out but still idled. I contacted mikunioz to shed some light as I've never come across this before. Anyone here experienced this?

There's a lot to be gained with oil cooled heads. The factory castings and valve seat/pockets are mediocre

Maybe use a dot head with 30/26 oversized valves and use the st2 cams or get your cams reprofiled. $$$

955cc, lightened crank, Carillo rods, big valve head, Yoshi st2 cams, fcr39's , decent exhaust system , two oil coolers

I have a complete rear wheel from a 2012 1000 that will bolt perfectly into that swingarm with correct chain alignment. I even have the offset front sprocket

I've got the later bpf type which where a little more tricky than the earlier 1000 forks. From memory had something to do with the top steering head bearing but in general, not difficult. Need to make a steering stop also

I've got 1000 forks so just had to get a different clamp for the fork leg but otherwise should be ok

I have one on my slabby

A lot of US high performance car parts are made in China and have proven to be on par with US made. They have the latest and greatest manufacturing technology that embarrasses the rest of the word. Bottom line it comes down to quality control. They can and will make anything you want, good, mediocre or shit.

I have busa rods in my 1277 na engine. Better rod/stroke ratio, less sidewall loading, better torque, better for high rpm, piston spend more time at TDC,

That's painful

If you remove the breather, it should be doable

I've got a 1052 motor in a 750L frame and the valve cover is removable without a problem

I've got lithium batteries in all my oilers with no issues

They're both, fkd and look sh_t!

Maybe for quicker access to those variable timing rotor buttons

I contemplated converting mine to side pull just for ease but not sure if it will fit. At the moment the centre pull cables interfere with the oil take off bar at the rear of the valve cover

Any reason you are going centre pull? Looks?

Usually when they don't flow on prime it's because the cast alloy ramp of the centre part that turns, has worn out. They are in general good units but if you use the prime feature often, the cast alloy wears out real quick

It's a switch in the normally closed position so when there is no oil pressure it's a closed circuit and oil pressure light is on. When oil pressure builds, it opens creating an open circuit and light turns off