Spirit Posted March 3, 2021 Posted March 3, 2021 Given the apparent disappearance of Tractech, is there another source for finished anti-dive blockoff plates for early 80's Suzukis? Quote
wraith Posted March 4, 2021 Posted March 4, 2021 Can't you just make two plates out of some aluminium plate, APX 4mm thick and use gasket paper to seal it with Quote
RGSX Posted March 4, 2021 Posted March 4, 2021 There are several ways that don't require plates. When I looked into the cost of the plate kits it was was pricey for what you were getting. I applied that cost towards Race Tech Emulators their install eliminates the anti-dive feature and supplies much improved suspension and you can keep the oldskool look of the anti dive units. I've seen a few bikes with the block off plates but imo the anti-dive units look better. 2 Quote
Joseph Posted March 5, 2021 Posted March 5, 2021 (edited) alloy plate cut to shape and drilled, gasket paper and put the antidives back on ? Shouldn't be harder than that Edited March 5, 2021 by Joseph 2 Quote
slayer61 Posted March 5, 2021 Posted March 5, 2021 Why was I of the opinion that the plates needed a channel from hole-to-hole to allow the oil to pass? I think mine were like that... 3 Quote
RGSX Posted March 5, 2021 Posted March 5, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, slayer61 said: Why was I of the opinion that the plates needed a channel from hole-to-hole to allow the oil to pass? I think mine were like that... That's true. There are several methods to disable the anti-dive discussed on the GSresources forum https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?257845-Block-off-plate-for-anti-dive&highlight=disable+anti-dive Block off plates, block the feed line, gut the anti-dive unit, RaceTech emulators. The 1st Block off plates, probably the least attractive looking and most expensive for what you get,plus more unsprung weight. The 2nd and 3rd very inexpensive, you keep the look , unsprung weight stays the same. The 4th, the gold valve emulators combined with racetech springs really upgrade the suspension performance by several decades. If you have a drill press you could install them yourself. Edited March 5, 2021 by RGSX Quote
RGSX Posted March 5, 2021 Posted March 5, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, Joseph said: alloy plate cut to shape and drilled, gasket paper and put the antidives back on ? Shouldn't be harder than that I suspect anyone looking for the block off plates doesn't have the means to make any for themselves. Adding block off plates to the anti-dive units is preserving the look but is adding unsprung weight. Edited March 5, 2021 by RGSX Quote
Joseph Posted March 5, 2021 Posted March 5, 2021 (edited) A quick calculation based on 2 mil thick aluminium plate weighs in at a whopping 20 grams for 2 block off plates I'll sit back and wait for someone to tell me that would be noticeable on a barge weight of a bike on crappy everyday roads. LoL Edited March 5, 2021 by Joseph 1 Quote
Gixer1460 Posted March 6, 2021 Posted March 6, 2021 14 hours ago, Joseph said: A quick calculation based on 2 mil thick aluminium plate weighs in at a whopping 20 grams for 2 block off plates I'll sit back and wait for someone to tell me that would be noticeable on a barge weight of a bike on crappy everyday roads. LoL I did wonder this myself ! 18 hours ago, RGSX said: I suspect anyone looking for the block off plates doesn't have the means to make any for themselves. Adding block off plates to the anti-dive units is preserving the look but is adding unsprung weight. If someone can't use a junior hacksaw, a file and a drill, they shouldn't be modifying motorcycles ! ! ! Quote
RGSX Posted March 6, 2021 Posted March 6, 2021 16 hours ago, Joseph said: A quick calculation based on 2 mil thick aluminium plate weighs in at a whopping 20 grams for 2 block off plates I'll sit back and wait for someone to tell me that would be noticeable on a barge weight of a bike on crappy everyday roads. LoL Unsprung weight is mass in motion, it has momentum and kinetic energy. A change in motion (going up and down) results in a change of momentum and requires a force applied over a period of time. The effects of unsprung motion are amplified as is the weight by a factor of 6, every gm lost matters they add up it's why manufacturers of performance bikes and aftermarket performance parts pay attention to shaving off grams everywhere, it's cumulative. Lighter caliper, sprockets, tires, titanium bolts all shave off grams, it's why forks were inverted. Reducing usprung weight matters keeping wheels in contact with those crappy roads. Quote
RGSX Posted March 6, 2021 Posted March 6, 2021 2 hours ago, Gixer1460 said: I did wonder this myself ! If someone can't use a junior hacksaw, a file and a drill, they shouldn't be modifying motorcycles ! ! ! Some people have only the most basic tools, some don't even have a shed to store their tools or to do their work in, they do what they can with what they have. No one knows how to modify a motorcycle until they begin with their first one, that includes you and I. 3 Quote
Joseph Posted March 6, 2021 Posted March 6, 2021 (edited) Granted, but still won't make an ounce of difference on a 240 kilo bike. Its like saying you can feel the acceleration capacities of your bike increase as the weight of the fuel in the tank decreases, because it's making the bike lighter. It takes a lot of work and even more money to reach tangible improvement in the weight loss department on a vehicle. Edited March 6, 2021 by Joseph 2 Quote
TonyGee Posted March 6, 2021 Posted March 6, 2021 its just like the fat bastard in the pub boasting about how light his sports bike is 5 Quote
RGSX Posted March 6, 2021 Posted March 6, 2021 Unsprung weight is different and more critical than sprung weight in performance of the bike. I could lose 30lbs of personal weight and it would help in acceleration but keeping the tires in contact with the road and changes in direction is more dependant on reducing unsprung weight. Lighter wheels, sprockets, lighter rotors, chain, 20 grams x 6 here and there add up. The technician that does the critical work on my bikes has spent time as a Crew Chief on the WorldSBK circuit says the correct priority for performance modification is to "Look after the suspension first, it needs to turn." Reducing weight can be as expensive adding hp and torque but the cumulative effects of weight saved can remarkably change how the bike handles. How fast you can go in a straight line doesn't matter much if it can't turn safely on a rough surface. Quote
Joseph Posted March 6, 2021 Posted March 6, 2021 It certainly will not make any difference on an EFEs turning capacity on rough surfaces either, indeed 1 Quote
Gixer1460 Posted March 7, 2021 Posted March 7, 2021 23 hours ago, RGSX said: Some people have only the most basic tools, some don't even have a shed to store their tools or to do their work in, they do what they can with what they have. Thats a fairly lame excuse IMO ! Tools no more complicated than I listed and excluding the drill probably cost a £5 ! And you don't 'need' a shed or storage facility - if you work on / service your bike a tool box kept under the stairs or in the car boot isn't unknown - hell I carried my entire tool collection around in a toolbox behind the seat of my Mini for years! If you plan on fixing things, then you have to plan on breaking / making things beforehand - or is that a life skill that is disappearing since these bikes were 'new'? Quote
TonyGee Posted June 22, 2022 Posted June 22, 2022 old thread resurrected, I did an experiment on my old GSXR1100 forks, took the anti dive off and made 2 blanking plates out of ally ( using a hacksaw a file and a drill ) with no channel to link the 2 oil holes in the blanking plate the forks just lock up solid, so you MUST link the 2 holes in the bottom of the forks. 3 Quote
Mike711 Posted June 23, 2022 Posted June 23, 2022 I just removed the extra brake lines & blocked off the thread in the anti dive units, works fine. 1 Quote
Pudzrx Posted June 23, 2022 Posted June 23, 2022 I'm assuming the forks need to be removed to carry out any procedures when removing the anti dive units as the oil would just come out when you took them off ? Quote
Pudzrx Posted June 23, 2022 Posted June 23, 2022 And are the brake part of the anti dive units rebuildable ? Quote
TonyGee Posted June 23, 2022 Posted June 23, 2022 4 hours ago, Mike711 said: I just removed the extra brake lines & blocked off the thread in the anti dive units, works fine. yeah thats what I did, but I just wanted to remove the whole unit off the forks. Quote
TonyGee Posted June 23, 2022 Posted June 23, 2022 4 hours ago, Pudzrx said: I'm assuming the forks need to be removed to carry out any procedures when removing the anti dive units as the oil would just come out when you took them off ? yes the oil will piss, but if you lay the forks flat then you can remove the unit, you could get a re-build kit from Suzuki once but they are no longer available unless theirs an aftermarket kit out their Quote
Bubba1135 Posted March 2 Posted March 2 Sourced a set of these from TracTech in Canada. Fitted last night and for me I think they look sweet. 4 Quote
Bubba1135 Posted March 2 Posted March 2 https://tractechmotorsports.ca/products/gs1150-anti-dive-by-pass-plates Quote
DaveV65 Posted March 2 Posted March 2 An interesting thread with some interesting thoughts, I just thought about the fact that not all of the front tyres available for the bike would weigh the same from different manufacturers and having the wheel balanced could see 20g added in weights. Also consider as the tyre wears it becomes lighter. I guess in World SBK they are at the law of diminishing returns and are at the edge of weight saving anyway, within class regs and as has been pointed out, the big old GSX is a bit of a barge to start with and is hardly a razor sharp track tool, just thinking. Quote
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