Mike711

Have you checked No.3 piston TDC is aligned with No.2, I've seen a slightly twisted crank (not on a GS though) cause very odd running probs.

Those are proper effed, look at the great wear ridge:-(

Heat it up.

The mounts are the same, I originally had a GS1000 in my 750 but swapped it for an 1100et without any problems.

I have an Accossato 16mm radial cylinder with std 1980 single piston calipers & it works well. I also have a 16mm clutch cylinder connected to the rear opposed piston caliper which also works very well, the std one barely has any effect.

Everyone using GS/GSXs back in the day removed the lot & ran total loss but if you need a starter & genny why not look up some of the classic endurance teams that run GSX1100s like Dynotech https://www.facebook.com/dynotechperformance/posts/2655410677854834/?paipv=0&eav=AfZn9wy2gjxSbE2MeoW0T0HzdMpNQnC85twRUNvOHRdfKC0C-MfaUpi_N8xOxX6SnMw&_rdr

Can't find them but I'm sure someone on here once posted some drawings for the modified brackets, the rear lower goes straight in but the front 2 need modding & the 2 x lowers & 2 x upper rears I think are made from scratch. I had a 1000 in my 750 since swapped to a GSX1100ET.

I went with Nitron in the end, lifted the rear by about an inch with a bit more available via the adjuster. The bike steers a bit quicker but nothing that's going to be unstable.

Sorry I don't know, I'll be talking to Allens soon about mine & will ask them.

https://www.allensperformance.co.uk/carb-kit/alternative-throttle-return-spring-chart/

To revive an old thread, I spoke to Allens Performance who import Mikuni and they said there are 2 return springs on RS carbs and I could remove one or there are also different locating pegs for the springs that will lead to a lighter action. I haven't tried either mod as my carbs are still with Allens having a 30yr service but I will be experimenting when they come back.

I had a 1000 motor in my 750 then swapped it to an 1100ET & can confirm the head & barrels can be removed in situ without touching engine mounts.

If you have enough reserve travel TWM make a 26mm assy or Accossato make one in 24mm.

What measurement do you have from the lever pivot bolt to the cable nipple centre/centre? There are clutch lever assemblies available down to 24mm, they use more lever travel but do give a much lighter feel.

BTW if anyone was interested I can confirm it's possible to remove the head & barrels with the engine in situ.

Thanks, yes the forks/wheels may have an impact on yours, mine is 1100 Katana forks/wheels/ SA etc & is rock steady but sits too low. I am thinking of CB900F shocks which are approx 30mm longer and have the fork lower fitting, I'll see if they make it twitchy & possibly add the fork extensions later.

Does your 711 have a std swingarm or an 1100 unit? If 1100 did you go with longer than std & did it make any difference to stability?

Yes I think the front will also need to be raised hence the question about fork extenders although I wil try it with just the shocks first, if it quickens up the steering without compromising stability the front might be ok as it is. The clip ons are Tomasselli swan necks fitted upside down to lift the riding position, they won't fit below the yoke. Thanks.

So my issue is I have a GS711, 1978 750 frame with 1980 1100 Kat engine/swingarm/forks/wheels. The swingarm is longer than the 750 one & with the std length shocks results in less ground clearance, the forks are dropped through the yokes by about 4cm to allow clips ons to mount above the yoke. Moving the clip ons under the yoke isn't an option, there's no clearance to the fairing and I don't want to alter the riding position. So I am looking at longer shocks and have seen YSS units that look okish & won't break the bank, has anyone used them & can comment good or bad about performance, quaility etc? My second idea is to fit fork extenders to allow the forks to go back where they should be, does anyone in OSS know where I might be able to get such things made or is there a longer stanchion from another model such as an L that would fit the Kat fork sliders? Thanks in advance.

I had a Q/A fitted with 34s & lasted 1/2 hour before giving up & going back to a std set up. It's now prefectly comfortable & I can live with slightly longer throttle action.

I did search but can't find anything specific. Are OE clutch friction plates the best bet for a stock engine? Thanks.

What ratio (distance from pivot centre to plunger centre) is the Hel cylinder, it's probably 16 or 18? I have used Accossato 19 x 18 (edit, it was 19 x 20 ) cylinders on ZZR1400s & Vmaxs both of which struggle with anything less.

Is your chain loose?

Have you checked the coils are 3 ohm?