majortom4 Posted September 5, 2015 Author Posted September 5, 2015 I don't think so ..Have you actually worked out what the C/R is with the parts you are using ?What is your target C/R .... well I'm not too sure what CR would be good for me. Is around 9-1 a good aim? Obviously no clue here haha. Quote
majortom4 Posted September 5, 2015 Author Posted September 5, 2015 (edited) Try one from Volvo. T5or v70 its Mitsubishi (13150) made unit. Get a straight flange Td04hl-16t . It's built in blow off valve. Cheap enough unit and good for 350bhp.yer iv been looking for something like that. found a td04 11g and a TD04L-12t and a TD04L-14T with the built in wastegate and blow off valve. would one of these be good? Edited September 5, 2015 by majortom4 add more Quote
majortom4 Posted September 5, 2015 Author Posted September 5, 2015 So the turbo has been purchased, got a TD04L 14Twhen it arrives I can start. Quote
Fula28 Posted September 5, 2015 Posted September 5, 2015 Great stuff, malpassi regulator and car type inline fuel pump will do, and regulator set to 2psi ish. One other thing worth noting you (WILL) need at least one if not two 1"breathers either off clutch cover As these boosted motors need it. Some use catch bottle/tank others to atmosphere via filter. Keep it going chief you will never look back once you ride it anger. !!! Quote
majortom4 Posted September 5, 2015 Author Posted September 5, 2015 Hopefully have a malapassi reg on the way soon. Got a fuel pump orders which goes up to 55 psi, got a clutch cover breaker already on bike, filters to atmosphere with a filter.what material should I make the plenum out of? Got an idea of either 2mm aluminium or 2mm steel?? Steel for strength but aluminium for weight saving. Or maybe 3mm aluminium?? Quote
Fula28 Posted September 5, 2015 Posted September 5, 2015 Alloy looks better and yes lighter! Guess it's upto you personal choice an all that. 3mm He30 soft easy to work. Quote
majortom4 Posted September 5, 2015 Author Posted September 5, 2015 Alloy looks better and yes lighter! Guess it's upto you personal choice an all that. 3mm He30 soft easy to work. cheers dude. Going to mock one up in card soon to see how it fits then when metal comes can cut it all out and find someone kind to weld it for me. Anyone in Derby able to weld and need a new friend? 1 Quote
majortom4 Posted September 6, 2015 Author Posted September 6, 2015 (edited) so after an afternoon messing around with some card, i have mocked up a plenum chamber, waiting for aluminium to come now. what do you guys think?Just wondering, do you think i can use the standard rubbers like in the pic or do you think ill need to put some metal tubes in place and use rubbers on the outside?Almost forgot, i am so glad that that bloody airbox will never EVER be going back on my bike, that thing almost got cut up to get it out.......... (im sure there is an easy way that i missed but hey) Edited September 6, 2015 by majortom4 Quote
Paulm Posted September 6, 2015 Posted September 6, 2015 Mine uses the stock rubber boots,they will be fine. Quote
majortom4 Posted September 6, 2015 Author Posted September 6, 2015 Awesome :-)also wondering, pitot tube size....... Read somewhere it should be 1/4" for every 1 inch of inlet tube. is this correct?also what size air inlet tube should I be using? Quote
Gixer1460 Posted September 6, 2015 Posted September 6, 2015 If you are going to 'end feed', its best to taper down towards the last carb to keep the airflows a bit sensible - centre feed is an option cos a) it reduces that effect and b) you don't keep bashing your knee on it! Dunno about pitot size - 3/8 or 10mm max rings a bell? Air inlet - no smaller than turbo outlet - why strangle it? and larger only reduces pressure and gets re-strangled at the plenum. Gas speed helps pitot function IMO. Quote
majortom4 Posted September 6, 2015 Author Posted September 6, 2015 Thanks buddy. Will change the outlet to the bottom or back of it and get the sizing when my turbo arrives. Quote
majortom4 Posted September 7, 2015 Author Posted September 7, 2015 So.... update for todays shinanigans, found some cheap bandit downpipes so thought id be able to use them for the turbo, gave them a good cleaning to make them shiny again. Quote
majortom4 Posted September 7, 2015 Author Posted September 7, 2015 (edited) gave them a chop to get rid of the big boxy bit to find out they are twin walled........ o feck!noticed there is a weld at the start which looks like it is holding the inside pipe in, you think i should grind this weld and try to take the inside pipe out or leave it in for strength?? takes it from 35mm ID to 25mm ID. you think this is too small?all the bends line up nicely tho and should make the fabricating part easy, Edited September 7, 2015 by majortom4 Quote
majortom4 Posted September 7, 2015 Author Posted September 7, 2015 dont know why the plenum caed mould thing is coming up...... tried to delete them but hey. Quote
majortom4 Posted September 7, 2015 Author Posted September 7, 2015 Also. does anyone know how i could get the dent out?if not gonna cut it out i think Quote
slingy1157 Posted September 8, 2015 Posted September 8, 2015 Mate, hate to say it, but I think that bandit pipe isn't any good for fabricating a header. I used a cheap gsxr750w 4 into 1 header (single skin) to fabricate my first header and that worked out ok, but can't see that that double skin pipe is workable. Either find another cheap single skin exhaust or find s supplier of pipe bends and start from scratch. Quote
majortom4 Posted September 8, 2015 Author Posted September 8, 2015 Mate, hate to say it, but I think that bandit pipe isn't any good for fabricating a header. I used a cheap gsxr750w 4 into 1 header (single skin) to fabricate my first header and that worked out ok, but can't see that that double skin pipe is workable. Either find another cheap single skin exhaust or find s supplier of pipe bends and start from scratch.oooo well that sucks.didnt know it was double skin when I bought it, thought I would be on to a winner being able to use the standard bends to my advantage.might mess around with it for now to see what I can do while waiting for parts to be delivered. Then if it fails order some new stuff to make it with. Quote
majortom4 Posted September 8, 2015 Author Posted September 8, 2015 Does anyone have any ideas on what wideband 02 metre I should go for?ones iv seen are the-AEM wide band UEGO AFR-PLX Gen 4-innovate LC-1 or LC-2cheerd guys! Quote
Captain Chaos Posted September 8, 2015 Posted September 8, 2015 didnt know it was double skin when I bought it,you should have asked on here before buyingfacepalm.gif Quote
majortom4 Posted September 8, 2015 Author Posted September 8, 2015 you should have asked on here before buyingfacepalm.gifyer I know that now haha. Just saw it for cheap and though it would be a good shout.talked to my weldy friend, he said it would be possible to chop the end off, remove the inside tube and use the outside one for the manifold. I don't really wanna just bin it as the bends are nice in it and seen to line up pretty nicely.Anyone about the Wideband AFR gauge? Quote
Arttu Posted September 8, 2015 Posted September 8, 2015 If you are looking for an AFR gauge, not just wideband controller, then Innovate MTX-L is one good choice. Reasonably priced and watertight.I wouldn't use stock headers for turbo manifold. Usually the bends aren't tight enough to get the turbo high enough for gravity drain. Of course this isn't important if you are going to use a scavenge pump any ways. In addition it's a good idea to use quite thick walled tubing unless you are going to build additional support to carry weight of the turbo. Quote
majortom4 Posted September 8, 2015 Author Posted September 8, 2015 If you are looking for an AFR gauge, not just wideband controller, then Innovate MTX-L is one good choice. Reasonably priced and watertight.I wouldn't use stock headers for turbo manifold. Usually the bends aren't tight enough to get the turbo high enough for gravity drain. Of course this isn't important if you are going to use a scavenge pump any ways. In addition it's a good idea to use quite thick walled tubing unless you are going to build additional support to carry weight of the turbo. I am looking for the whole shebang for the AFR gauge, controller, sensor etc. was just looking for personal opinions. Yer I think I may be using a bracket to hold the turbo up and probably a scavenge pump.if not using the down pipes I was looking at using 2mm thick mild steel tubing for the manifold. Would that be suitable? Quote
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