majortom4 Posted September 22, 2015 Author Share Posted September 22, 2015 Well that screw took a royal beating and now iv fucked it...... Time to smash a flat head or torque bit into it and see what I can do....... I'll have a look at that thanks slingy.thinking of putting pitot after elbow into plenum so on a streight section. Quote Link to comment
majortom4 Posted September 22, 2015 Author Share Posted September 22, 2015 Sooooo many different ways of doing the pitot!!! I really don't know which is best. So putting the tube in line (parallel with the inlet tube) is better than across stream? And should be 6mm not 10 like iv read in other places?deffinitly witch craft voodoo shit!! Haha Quote Link to comment
majortom4 Posted September 22, 2015 Author Share Posted September 22, 2015 @slingy1157 so I finally got the screw out. Bent the little tabs so floats are 2mm higher. But now the floats don't have any movement. Is this correct??? Quote Link to comment
Gixer1460 Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 (edited) 2mm higher when inverted or higher when right way up? If former that's correct, if latter then that's wrong as would be increasing fuel level in bowl. There should be movement - float must be able to fall away from the float valve or you won't get fuel in or the float buoyancy won't have enough closing pressure to stop fuel flow. 6mm pitot was a guesstimate - peeps have used 6, 8 and 10 with success - its not an exact science, try, try and try again!ps. Fuel injection is sooooooo much easier in this regard! LOL Edited September 22, 2015 by Gixer1460 1 Quote Link to comment
majortom4 Posted September 22, 2015 Author Share Posted September 22, 2015 (edited) Managed to change float height by 1.5mm with movement still available. And changed them with them still upside down. If I changed them by 2mm they would jam and not move. (Metal tab would be stuck on jet thingy)yer fuel injection sounds easy but expensive!! read uncle bobs turbo page about pitot tube sizing and placement. Says he can't find any pros and cons with different placing. Don't know which one to go for now....... Want to go with the horizontal to air flow for ease of size changing if wrong size but don't because of it being a bigger obstruction. Hmmmmmm wondering as well if I send my bike to a dyno to get set up how many hours do you think it would take? And also if I get it set up at a dyno will it still be a good idea to get a wideband AFR sensor and gauge or will I not need one?? Edited September 22, 2015 by majortom4 Quote Link to comment
majortom4 Posted September 24, 2015 Author Share Posted September 24, 2015 ok so got my plenum welded up today along with my pitot tube. going to try the horizontal to flow one first and see how i get on as easier to change sizing of it by re drilling holes. Quote Link to comment
majortom4 Posted September 24, 2015 Author Share Posted September 24, 2015 also wired in a switch for my oil pump, and cut and attached all my induction piping. getting close to finishing now. just waiting for oil return parts and my friend to come and help me fabricate the manifold. as asked before but with no answer.if i take my bike to a dyno to get set up will i still need to buy and install a wideband 02 metre?? or not? Quote Link to comment
majortom4 Posted September 28, 2015 Author Share Posted September 28, 2015 some more pics of where im up to. had to alter the bracket for the turbo to lower it so it wouldn't be hitting on the wheel.... underestimated the size of turbo and how it would be when sat on and loaded. 2 Quote Link to comment
majortom4 Posted October 2, 2015 Author Share Posted October 2, 2015 Been a while since update.at the moment I have been preparing for the manifold fabrication. Unfortunately as I am on a tight budget (and a cheap skate) I haven't been able to get anyone to fabricate the manifold. Sooooo this is going to be my next challenge! Tig set bought, welding videos watched and going to give it a bash myself! (Pictures to come after practice) so hopefully have it started and running somewhat within the next few weeks. Any hints and tips on welding would be nice. Going to purge it all with argon for nice welds and strength. Also as I am in university this may take longer. Also found someone with a dyno who is very nice who will be helping me set it up. Man this project is teaching me many things and is an awesome experience. Again a massive thanks to everyone and all for the help and input they have given up to now! You guys are awesome!! Will deffinitly have to come to a meet some time to put a face to people's typing :-) Quote Link to comment
1260pete Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 When its set up you won't need a wideband mate but its always nice to have just in case, where abouts are you? as i have a dyno and can help out if you are near. Quote Link to comment
majortom4 Posted October 2, 2015 Author Share Posted October 2, 2015 Ok awesome, thanks for clearing that up. Maybe something to buy further down the line.im in Derby. Anywhere near you? Quote Link to comment
majortom4 Posted October 2, 2015 Author Share Posted October 2, 2015 @1260pete just looked at your profile and seen you are in Shropshire is that correct? If it is you are about 1.5 hours away and that would be absolutely amazing if I could bring my bike there for you to help me set it up! Quote Link to comment
1260pete Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 @1260pete just looked at your profile and seen you are in Shropshire is that correct? If it is you are about 1.5 hours away and that would be absolutely amazing if I could bring my bike there for you to help me set it up!Yes mate i'm in Shropshire, give me a shout when its ready and we will get it sorted 1 Quote Link to comment
majortom4 Posted October 2, 2015 Author Share Posted October 2, 2015 Will do! Thanks a lot buddy. Absolute legend. Quote Link to comment
Pheasantplucker Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 Hi, nice to see someone building on a budget, the sort of thing that I have to do!What do you reckon its cost so far?I have a gsx1100et that needs a bandit motor in it and you've got me thinking about turbo's now! Quote Link to comment
majortom4 Posted October 30, 2015 Author Share Posted October 30, 2015 Sorry for taking a while to get back to you.so far, without including tools and stuff that I have bought, I'd say about £300. Its deffinitly been a learning experience and I'd say go for it as its been great fun. Not finished yet tho, just going through making the manifold, hopefully have it welded up over the weekend, going to be far from perfect but hopefully will work. Then just getting it on the dyno for set up. Quote Link to comment
Pheasantplucker Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 Bloody hell that's very reasonable!I thought you were going to say £1000 or more even.So a turbo is doable on a tight budget.Thanks. Quote Link to comment
majortom4 Posted October 30, 2015 Author Share Posted October 30, 2015 Yes, I have been very carefully with budget (being in uni) trying to fabricate and make everything myself, only thing I have paid someone to do so far is the welding for the plenum, the rest I am doing myself, but I think that's part of the fun of it. Fabricating the manifold along (if I wasn't doing it) could cost from £600-£1200 but I am self teaching myself to weld and bought a cheap tig rig to do it myself. So far so good as well but the proof has yet to come, not had it started since the start. Fingers crossed! Quote Link to comment
majortom4 Posted October 30, 2015 Author Share Posted October 30, 2015 Also there are things which I should probably buy for a good turbo set up, such as AFR gauge and lock up clutch and forged Pistons, but these are the expensive things costing about £600-£700 for them, so as I am not doing these I will only be running low boots so not to melt my engine.after saving up for these, I will then increase boost :-) Quote Link to comment
Captain Chaos Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 Also there are things which I should probably buy for a good turbo set up, such as AFR gauge and lock up clutch and forged Pistons, but these are the expensive things costing about £600-£700 for them, so as I am not doing these I will only be running low boots so not to melt my engine.after saving up for these, I will then increase boost :-)that's what we also tried, stock GSX-R1100 engine with just 0,5 bar boost. After 5000km it melted a piston. Quote Link to comment
majortom4 Posted October 30, 2015 Author Share Posted October 30, 2015 Hopefully will have the money for the forged Pistons soon, looking at going for the early busa ones as hopefully will be a fairly simple swap over :-)am I right in thinking it's just a re-bore and thicker base gasket? Quote Link to comment
Paulm Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 (edited) Ha ha, I destroyed three Pistons in my turbo bandit motor,it was at 15psi at one point though!!Busa pistons are a good compromise,paid £70 for mine and £130 for the rebore Edited October 30, 2015 by Paulm 1 Quote Link to comment
majortom4 Posted October 30, 2015 Author Share Posted October 30, 2015 Looking at running 7psi at first, or less.....was I right in thinking the early busa pistons are an easy swap? Or can you suggest something else which would be cheap ish? Quote Link to comment
Paulm Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 Gen 1 Busa pistons are the ones,takes it to 1216,if you're on a tight budget reuse your standard head gasket on the rebore,it'll be fine,been running a standard one in mine all summer on my Busa pistoned 1216 bandit turbo motor,I'll sort out a proper one over the winter,I'm running 11psi and about 200bhp Quote Link to comment
majortom4 Posted October 30, 2015 Author Share Posted October 30, 2015 Is it that easy then? Take barrel off, put Pistons on rods, re-bore and put back together?? Or am I missing something that is going to make it very tricky?? Quote Link to comment
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