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Turbo charging my B12


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Been having a right nightmare trying to mount the fuel pump and pressure regulator without it looking stupid. Finally just about found a place with a couple of cable ties and they are on. Also plumbed in my manual boost controller to the in-built waste gate and blow off valve. Isn't looking as sharp as I wanted with the pipes but can't do anything different.

drilled tank overflow and blocked off hole at top so now have a fuel return. Fitted air filter to turbo, wired in fuel pump to switch live.

not too much left now really. Just waiting for some piping to come for the tubes to the plenum. Then it's just welding downpipes (probably going to be a lot harder than I imagine) , fitting AFR gauge and getting oil return plumbed in when the parts get here. 

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Ok so about to tackle pitot tube size, 

just wondering if this concept would theoretically work?? (Seems good to me)

so what I read was that instead of just drilling a hole in the pitot tube, was to drill and tap a hole the correct size to fit a main jet in. Then if the bike runs lean or rich you can change the jet size in the pitot tube rather than re-jetting the carbs. Now I was looking at putting the pitot tube in not parallel but across the air stream leaving two ends to put my carb pipes onto, then from this info drilling and tapping a hole to put a main jet into.

do you guys think this would be a good idea? Or do you think the pitot would have to be parallel to the airstream for this to work?? Or not work at all?? 

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Ok, carbs are pretty much stock,  but, because of the increased fuel pressure, the fuel level rises in the bowls, so you need to reduce the fuel height, usually by about 2mm.

So do the usual turn carbs up side down, take bowls off, then with them still up side down, measure from the carb bowl gasket surface to the highest point on the float. should be about 13.5mm stock I think, but what ever it is, first check all 4 are the same, then bend the little tab in the centre of the float down untill you raise each float to 15.5mm (if starting at the example measurement of 13.5mm). This will help stop them from flooding and keep fueling nearer the stock jetting.

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You need to get the fuel pressure as low as possible. You can even take the spring out of the fuel pressure regulator as just the internal restrictions will give 1.5 to  2 psi fuel pressure which is on the limit of what the float valves can hold safely. And remember, the higher the fuel pressure the higher the fuel level will be in the carbs and the more adjustment to float height you'll need

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Long be afraid to hit screw driver with hammer repeatedidly while trying to turn to loosen, or use an impact driver. Also a good idea to replace all fasteners on the carbs with socket head screws as they will be apart ALOT before your done.

So true! The fasteners get a right Royal workout! Mind you very satisfying when sorted.

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Pitot design is black magic voodoo shit but basics seem to be.

Keep away from turbulent area's such as elbows or turbo outlet, and generally the  pitot running parallel with the uppipe seem to work better. Like you say, I would use a 10 mm pitot, then block the end and drill maybe a 3mm hole in it. Then this can be opened up 0.5 mm at a time untill you find a size that works for your system. 

This is what isrecommended by Unclebobs Turbo's. Google it, it's a very good resource.

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Pretty sure someone on the old site used the 'cross port - single tube - twin ends' arrangement and found it un-satisfactory and so reverted to the 'normal' bent tube pitot. Probably didn't work as forcing air to make sharp turns loses momentum and pressure. I'd stick with tried and tested - likewise a main jet of say 300 is maybe a 1/4 or less area of a 6mm dia. pitot which is a normal size (or bigger) - that single pitot has to pressurise 4No. carb bowls - that's a lot of surface area!

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