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Turbo charging my B12


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I am looking for the whole shebang for the AFR gauge, controller, sensor etc. was just looking for personal opinions. 

Yer I think I may be using a bracket to hold the turbo up and probably a scavenge pump.

if not using the down pipes I was looking at using 2mm thick mild steel tubing for the manifold. Would that be suitable?

Yes, then the MTX-L would be my choice. Most likely.

2mm thick mild steel should be pretty fine. Quite popular material choice is water pipe and bends. If I recall correctly that has about 2.5mm wall thickness. It holds the turbo nicely and resists cracking really well.

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Cheers slingy, iv read the same as well. Reading about MTX-L and it seems to be a solid choice, not heard many bad things about it and the price is reasonable as well. 

Can anyone shed light on what a data logger is/does and price and if it is necessary??? (Yes yes I know it logs data) guessing data from the AFM? 

Awaiting for Santa to come with all my goodies then can get this show on the road!

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A push fit like that is airtight like a sausage in a hoola hoop when boosted air pressure is involved. Stock installation is at atmospheric pressure ie. zero - throw 1 psi at it and it'll leak like a sieve! You may get away with a liberal coating of RTV in the groove and around the rubber flanges but its got to resist any movement liable to split it putting / taking the carbs off and on. 

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A push fit like that is airtight like a sausage in a hoola hoop when boosted air pressure is involved. Stock installation is at atmospheric pressure ie. zero - throw 1 psi at it and it'll leak like a sieve! You may get away with a liberal coating of RTV in the groove and around the rubber flanges but its got to resist any movement liable to split it putting / taking the carbs off and on. 

hmmmmm i see what you mean. I did ask this question before weather I should use stock rubbers or put pipe on with clamps and someone said stock rubbers would be ok. I can see it being a problem further down the line. 

Luckily I have just enough aluminium left to make another bit for the front to weld pipes onto.

 

Edited by majortom4
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Hmmmmm what to do what to do....

well To put a bit of pipe on would mean it being 70mm OD to fill the whole as its like an egg (the same as the air box) and the carbs are 60mm...... Soooo think I'll have to re-make the faceplate with 60mm holes to put some pipe in then silicone hose from plenum to carbs. At least then I don't have to worry. But hell it was hard work making those holes in 3m aluminium with a drill and a file.......

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There's plenty of kits around with the stock rubbers being used,and yes they do fit into the plenum,the choice is yours really,mines been on for about 4000miles and as I've said I've had no problems,it's putting out around 200bhp at the moment,you'll enjoy it when it's built,good luck.

Paul

Edited by Paulm
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There's plenty of kits around with the stock rubbers being used,and yes they do fit into the plenum,the choice is yours really,mines been on for about 4000miles and as I've said I've had no problems,it's putting out around 200bhp at the moment,you'll enjoy it when it's built,good luck.

Paul

hmmmmm decisions decisions. I'll see how I feel tomorrow weather I want to file out some more holes or not haha.

Looking forward to 200hp :-)

cheers dude

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A push fit like that is airtight like a sausage in a hoola hoop when boosted air pressure is involved. Stock installation is at atmospheric pressure ie. zero - throw 1 psi at it and it'll leak like a sieve! You may get away with a liberal coating of RTV in the groove and around the rubber flanges but its got to resist any movement liable to split it putting / taking the carbs off and on. 

I'm using similar airbox rubbers on my plenum too. Seals just fine without any additional sealant. Though I also did grooves around the holes where the lip of rubber boot sits. Actually pressure inside the plenum just pushes the rubber against the plenum wall and makes it seal even better. So if the fitment is correct I think it will work fine. And it saves some space compared to stubs and silicone hoses alternative ;) 

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Oil feed from main gallery below the Ignition cover - will require adapter and either hose fitting or banjo & bolt. Return - anywhere higher than running oil level if pumped return, usually top of clutch cover is practical - requires weld on fitting or tap and fit adapter for min. dash 8 hose! Don't use the oil filler / crankcase vent - you'll need that regardless!

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From my experience, one way valves aren't reliable once flow stops then the turbo fills with oil and either leaks from inlet and / or exhaust or smokes massively on start up!

hmmmmm ok fair enough. Will buy a 90 degree connector for my hose and drill a hole in the side casing. Is there any nice way of doing it or is it just a matter of find a spot and get drilling??

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