DAZ

Kent cams have been going for decades no worries about using they're products as FBOB says gsxr cams used to be cheaper but rare in good nick and sensible money as for Vernier cam sprockets you can have the std ones slotted and if you worry about them coming loose loctite is available in many fetching colours ....

Heard of, but never tried, of people using wide zip ties to compress the rings then snip off when the rings are in the bores.....

I call BS on that, besides those fingers build some real nice bikes

Don't quote me on this,I seem to recall that the rf stem thins out at the top and to use a b12 top yoke required a spacer type sleeve so it would presumably be the reverse in your scenario is the stem is too thick for the rf yoke @wraithhas faster fingers

Brutal,funny as fuck ,but brutal

Genuine 18k should be spot on ,if it's not the guage could it be bore glazing?

No disgrace in binning it in my opinion,if your pushing on, you'll only find the edge when you step over it ,at least your ok the bikes fixable and you know you need a high level link pipe keep it up enjoy you race reports immensely

Have a look at venom hybrid turbo leeds,no experience of them but they appear to do the sort of work you're probably looking for

Interesting chart, so if it's correct then e10 requires 3.5% more fuel than straight petrol.... what is worrying is that India and Brazil already have e20 and some manufacturers are already building e25+( flex fuel) ready cars, time to buy jets and afr gauges ....

There's a lot of blow through turbo cars in the U.S. running e85 (it's a common pump cheap pump fuel in some areas and only 15% off straight meth ) not only is it higher octane but also it runs much cooler which has obvious benefits under boost, so maybe some of the sites like . The turbo forums.com ,which has a motorcycle as well as carburettor section could be with a visit

Cool looking ride , I have no experience of methanol or turbo bikes ,if you get no joy here why not try contacting someone like csu or pro systems in the States(who build 4 barrel blow through e85 and methanol carbs) they may not want to tell you all their trade secrets but maybe willing to give you some helpful information as regards % jet increases hth Do you have the ability to log afr during a run ? Even a go pro watching a guage is better than nothing , as I believe methanol should be around 4:1 as opposed to 12-12.5:1 for petrol

Try to use a bit of engine braking as well ,down a long hill say to create a reverse load if you like, it'll help bed the rings in as well as varying the load and the gears,you don't want to thrash it but don't baby it to much either

Some very tidy one off parts you're creating there, its going to be a very special build of an already special bike

Yep,Ogri and malcolm,and joe bar team ...

The two 5 inch lights look spot on ( no pun intended....probably) to me Aesthetics are personal and if you want purely function that's one thing but getting the form to follow functionality is the hard part

Great to have another report from you , the 3rd race where you were lapping on your own could be a good thing I imagine as you get to concentrate on your lines ,braking points Etc rather than being subject to riding around the opposition,but it probably doesn't feel like racing if you're not elbow to elbow but you picked up a place !

Does your phone not have the black box at the bottom of the thread saying "Reply to this topic" if not I've no idea

Try checking the plug wire , if it's only one cylinder its probably not the coil as each coil fires two cylinders... Can you check the resistance with a multi meter or swap leads around

I'm under the impression that all the 600/750/1052/1127/1157 engines will swop the only difference being the 1052/1127/1157 engines are taller,and the bottom rear mount is a 12mm whereas the 600/750 is a 10mm ,I was corrected on a previous post by someone who said the 1052 had a 10mm rear bottom mount,but never having had one I can't say for sure,but if it does have a 10 mm mount then you only have to drill the mounting plate out or sleeve the engine mount with a length of metal tubing 12mm o/d 10mm internal

Must pay the workers chicken feed ..... I'll get me coat .... Looks good though

Possibly so people didn't have to change shims as often ? Maybe not , but if they expected the engine to be ragged mercilessly then maybe they expected some valve seat recession from the hammering closing the clearance, meh, who knows ?

Far classier than the usual u shaped strip metal jobbies you're making some nice bits on those big boy tools

Fuel hose softening when engine warm and kinking ?, esp if it's a shade long to make getting the tank off easier

Noticed the washer/O ring missing off the broken screw do you know if that's what has caused the tip to snap off ? Is it or a part of it jamming the tip in the hole if so find out what will dissolve the "rubber" washer/O ring (I know it's not rubber but viton or whatever the material is ) and soak it till it breaks down ?

Yeah I figure a mirror(ish) bottom mount and some bars thing them together, but it's nicely sculpted and not just a lump of angle