bluedog59

Jeez, Is it national "pick an argument" day ? Anybody would think I'd said the Virgin Mary was a tranny !! A "chocolate teapot" is something incapable of performing the task being asked of it and thus it would appear to falling into this category for me for the reasons stated. I am very aware that a high C of G is not what is required for a drag bike, the term "straight line" bike is a generic term I would use for a bike that is not suited to the fast and bumpy roads I prefer. I am also au fait with the fact that you can amass all the finery in the world and still build a camel if they do not function as a harmonious "whole".

I think something like your Harris and the way it's set up would be far better to ride. I'm sure your Spondon will be the same, function first and foremost.

Strange, I would have thought you'd have got a good few BHP on the top with them, certainly better than stock or stock carbs with dual K+N's and the correct jetting.

IMO. High C of G, Turbo and Nitrous makes it too much of a straight line bike for me. Fine if that's what you want but I'm surrounded by fast and bumpy B roads and prefer something that is fast over the whole route A to B, not something I'm fighting keep the front down on and pointing in the right direction. I'm sure there is probably a good bike in there but not in it's present set up.

Is that with a stock motor ?

Can't say I like it, form over function and about as much use a chocolate teapot.

Surface prep is the important thing before paint choice, get it right and just about any brand will stick. Apparently there is a Scania chassis paint that sticks well and a good match for the stock grey.

What about w/c v4 2 strokes ?

It should work ok,in fact it should give you more clearance between caliper and spokes due to the increased angle of the spokes to accommodate the small rim diameter (assuming the rim holes are in the same place relative to the rim centre line. Are you building them yourself ?

Could somebody shrink that post down please ? Cat paw/ keyboard interface.

Something from an obscure Suzuka 8hr or Bol d'Or team maybe ? Or, A quality matt black, make people look at the bike rather than the paint

I've got early GSXR600 clocks on my Mk1 B12, If you get the clock sub loom and matching connectors it can just be a plug in job. Has the Mk2 B6 case got both cable clutch and speedo pick up mount ? If your output shaft isn't drilled ( and some report it hard to drill if it's not ) there are ways round mounting the tigger. The speedo is not optimistic , it's just a very good tuning mod. Instant 10mph more top end.

With 400 bodywork and graphics.

If Suzuki did increase the cooling capability between the S and R versions, I would suggest 2 main reasons. 1. The R was intended to be more viable for racing and thus extra cooling would be needed. 2. Beam frames are known for restricting airflow over and around the engine and also for containing heat in the area.

The E18 and E39 area (Swiss/Austria) models have BST36ss carbs. ID number 17E3, 110 main jet, 37.5 pilot, jet needle 5FB , needle jet P-3,.

This tea or coffee............ any biscuits included ?

What size discs are you running ?

Before you go shelling out cash I would totally strip and service what you have. Get the calipers and m/cylinder apart, cleaned (ultrasonic is very good) inspected/replaced and reassembled with a good dose of rubber grease and see how they are then. I did this to my system ( which was, externally, in good condition) and was amazed at the improvement. It went from a "speed adjuster" to actually being a brake. If it's still lacking try the m/cylinder and caliper upgrade route but at least give your present system a chance before you condemn it to the scrap bin.

A most kind and generous offer Sir but I think I'll decline. BTW. Those cases bring 3 letters to mind. Can you guess what they are and what order they go in ? Stunning build.

Worse than that, it's got anodised bolts !!!

If you want to look at "squares under the dyno curve" rather than a peak BHP figure I'd go for the airbox. As mentioned, the airbox is more than just a place to stick the air filter. If you look at the carb to airbox rubber they are basically a velocity stack, nice rolled entry, shallow taper, they project into the airbox (meaning they can draw air from all around them) and crucially, the right length for them to help make the inlet pulses work together. Now look at a pod filter straight on the back of a carb . You've lost all the good stuff and got a solid end to the pod that screws up the intake pulses. A good compromise could be a set of correct length stacks with a big foam filter over and around them but not touching them at the end. But then you've started building an airbox. The airbox also provides a still air chamber for the engine to draw from helps in the harmonics between cylinders (could be why twin pods work better than separates).

But is there any way of fitting o/c to w/c ?

I got mine up to temperature on a ride then threw the bike down the road, yokes did the rest. Bent them both back perfectly and barely left a mark.............. on the cooler that is, the rest of the bike needed a bit more than a polish.

Very tidy.

You've just had the clutch apart, logic says look there first for the problem.