bluedog59

They both look "nice" but the Kat doesn't quite look right. The tail unit is out of proportion and I agree about the discs and pipe, all that work in the fabrication and then it hangs lower than a whore's drawers. A nice collection of bits put together well but just misses that final bit. First thing I noticed was the "170BHP at the crank", and how did he measure that then ?

That looks mighty fine. PS. like the homemade blast cabinet in the background ( unless it's some kinky bondage s+m device ).

Jeez, you're looking younger every day. Hats off to you for doing it, it takes big balls to be doing that speed on one wheel. I shy away from high speed ones now after the last 3 figure one went pear shaped on landing. I've had a case of testicular shrinkage since then.... and finding I don't bounce well as I get older.

Or, have you nipped a fuel hose or a breather pipe ?

Don't tell me you spun it over with no oil in !!! I'd take the sump and any other bits off you can and spray LOADS of WD40 in to flush out the bottom what you can't wipe out by hand.

Can't see any problem with that providing it comes off in good condition, it's not exactly a "high pressure" joint.

All's well that ends well. "Time for bed" said Zebedee.

Fix it, it's not going to get any better.

Nope, never had one go loose on me. Maybe that's because I warm the housing and chill the bearing.

Whacking the bearings in and out cold will cause the wear that starts this sort of problem. The bearings are a press/interference fit and every time you do it cold it will damage the seating area in the wheel a little bit more.

If it's a salvage bike it may have been stood some time. Have you tried giving the carbs a quick bath in an ultrasonic tank ? They may look cleans but you can't see or clean out all the passages you can't get to.

It amazes me the amount of people who whack bearings in and out cold. Warm the hub before you remove or fit bearings (boiling water is often enough and kinder to paint than a flame ) and stick bearings in the freezer in a sealed bag for 15 mins before you fit them.

Stick your tongue on the end of the lead/coil you think is duff then press the start button.

I have a feeling you may be barking up the wrong tree here. Providing the bend is done properly, with no kinks or ripples and is a uniform shape and cross sectional area, it will make little or no difference. The exhaust gas is only "interested" in the length and diameter/area of a pipe, think of it like water flowing through a pipe, a flat spiral with no restrictions will flow the same as a straight pipe of the same length. If the problem is caused by a "bad" bend that is deformed on the inner radius due to the tightness of the bend you are not going to cure it by moving it further from the port. One caveat to this is if the length lost with the short bend has not been added the other end, throwing the tuned lengths out of sync with the state of tune of the engine. What link pipe/can are you running ? any chance of some pics ? Exhaust craft have been going for some years and look to make decent stuff so I doubt they will have screwed up but, if the exhaust is to blame, ask them how to sort it, they made it. For reference, look at some of the pipe shapes on MotoGP bikes that run "V" engines. ( have a box of tissues handy )

They can be expensive to do but lighter wheels are always worth it. Better acceleration, braking, handling and just less effort riding. The added bonus is, no change in reliability or engine characteristics.

I'm not saying you can't have a short pipe, have what you want but accept that, ultimately, they are not good. If you get it running good enough to use and it's not hurting it, use it.

From what I've found developing a pipe when I was racing and talking to dyno operators, Short pipe don't work. I know people will say they've got a short pipe and it's great but, how great ? Have they run it back to back against a full length system on a dyno ?

I'd go with the M12 and drill the holes out. Suzuki don't put the bigger bolt in for nothing.

You just know that's never going to be true, A. It's a motorcycle. B. It's not standard.

If you're getting a spark I'd be looking at fuel supply on that cylinder. One old trick you can try is to pour a TINY amount of fuel into the offending cylinder via the plug hole,replace the plug and start the engine. If it fires on all four for a moment, odd's on it's fuel.

All that picture needs is a bag of sweeties or some puppies. "Hello, is that Social Services ?"

I suppose, technically the 2 M8's would be strong enough but the potential for heat transfer causing the damper issues could be interesting. Never tried it myself.

Oil cooled motors don't have the cam end caps with their fragile screws. The "cam link" bolts are M8 and the cam cover ones are M7. We still need to know what this bracket will be attaching as it's rather important to giving a yes/no opinion.

That would depend on what you're going to mount on said bracket.

Bonus !!!! Just picked up an RF900 motor with a head problem, snapped off plug and a possible dropped valve (different cylinders). All the rest of it looks good so I MAY be able to fix it with 1 piston and a 750 head. Cost of said engine ? £0.