bluedog59

I'd go with Dezza on this, a good soak in the fizzy tank can work wonders for freeing stuff before you get brutal with the implements of destruction.

Be honest Dezza, you just wanted to post some pictures of your Harris to make us jealous.

And, why have you got that crappy bolt holding the back mudguard on ? Lol. Nice bike but my eyes keep coming back to that rusty screw holding a fancy paint job on.

The motor is the same as the old DR650 which is a bombproof unit but heavily restricted on the inlet and exhaust. If you're going to build something with it, a change of pipe and either big holes in the air box and a jet kit or something like an FCR39mm carb make a huge difference. Do something interesting with it and you may just get in the OSS fold.

Stutters at about 10,000 rpm, what's the redline at ?

But if your new frame just happens to have the same number stamped on it......

Change down.

Pedant.

Everybody hold their horses, it's his bike and he likes it. I can understand why it's been done so it can go back to stock ( there's plenty of people who've dived in with the angle grinder and wished they hadn't ) and it's up and running. Good on you mate for keeping another OSS bike on the road. And don't,for f*ck's sake, wrap the fuggin' exhaust.

A couple of stainless clamps aren't much use if it doesn't fit. I'd send it back before you start modding it otherwise they could wriggle out of a replacement when it still doesn't fit. You shouldn't have to mod a new, replacement item to make it fit.

You have got it the right way round ?

I'd go back to the supplier if it's new. Failing any joy there, you can make up thin shim sleeves using a coke can ( other drinks cans are available ). Cut strips that are deep enough to cover the full length of the joint and long enough to go round the pipe with no overlap. A decent pair of scissors will cut it and maybe be use a little exhaust sealant to help it.

Telling Mr Doohan to "man up" ? I don't think your "short term prospects" would look very good.

Goes rather well. Is it me or is your kill switch backwards ?

Bike, I've had a couple and they can be equally frustrating and brilliant. I still have a late model YB and it is clear it is exactly the same chassis as their WSB racers. Adding all the extra bits to make it road legal have been done with the same focus, any servicing issues it causes are the owners problem.

Bimota ownership is very similar to the Eric Morecambe/Andre Previn situation. You have all the right notes....................... The tune is in there somewhere, you've just got to find it.

Find out where the noise meter is and roll off the gas a bit.

From a personal point of view, if I'm on the brakes for a corner and thinking " Poo ! Poo !! POO !! This is a little late" I'm not exact bothered if the calipers are pink with glitter sparkles. I've have plenty of time for that when I'm sitting in the kitty litter.

An endurance racer need to be quickly repairable, it's far quicker and easier to replace a set of externally mounted lights than ones buried in a fairing.

It depends if you find beauty in paint and chrome or efficient design to improve function. I like it.

As you sometimes have a passenger and I actually have a B12 I understand your predicament. Buying a sports bike would give you better handling and more performance but, A. How much of it can you really use on the road ? B. They tend to have a postage stamp for a rear seat. My B12 has a WP rear shock, a fork swap ( but you can make the stock forks better), lighter wheels and a full Akra. With a bit of prudent spending and swapping you can make a "real world" bike that is good for riding to work, loading up with kit for weekends away and can hussle surprisingly well. It's also rather fun still being in their mirrors when the sports bike squid are giving it all the theatricals and preparing to make a hole in a hedge.

You've already done the turbo option, why do the same thing again ?

Trade her in for a smaller unit.

That's seen better days.

It's unlikely to be a mechanical fault if it was running on 4 beforehand. If you haven't touched anything between it running on 4 and now 3 we'll assume the compression and valve are good enough to fire. Have you checked the relevant floatbowl for fuel ? The float height ? The pilot jet and choke circuit ? The airscrew setting ?