bluedog59

With that many turns out on the air screws I be looking at a size or two bigger on the pilot jets. Have you set your float heights ? I've found Bandit carbs to be very fussy about them.

Whatever you're smokin'.............. I'll give it a pass if you don't mind.

I did a little bit of machining on the castellated bit ( IIRC ) and welded it to the sprocket nut for mine. Works perfectly.

What have you got the float heights set at ? From my experience B12 carbs can be very fussy on fuel level in the float bowl. If this is happening when you're just trying to rev it with no load on it, it seems like the next fuel supply up after the pilots is just not kicking in. Even if the needle setting and main jet were well out it should still rev in neutral if the fuel is there.

Anybody got one that could take a few measurement for me please ? 1. Free length, fork top to spindle. 2. Diameter where the yokes clamp. 3. Distance between caliper mounting holes. 4. Distance from each caliper mount hole to spindle centre. Ta very much.

Brilliant,thanks very much. How much are the bits per bank of carbs ? I've got 3 sets and if I'm going to one I my as well do all three.

You want pics ? I'll have to accost a passing 5 year old to help me with that.

Don't you just love 'em !! I've just fitted mine to the RatMoto DR650 and somebody appears to have stuck a red hot poker up it's bum. Wheelies like a good 'un. A highly recommended mod. Anybody got a 320mm disc for a DR kicking about ? I think I may need one.

Nice mod. A full run down on exactly what you did would be cool.

Strange for it to rattle with the lever in, worn basket maybe ? If you need to balance your carbs to help things, I have a set of gauges and can do them for you.

I got round that little problem by welding the castellated trigger to a sprocket nut. I seem to remember there was a little bit off turning /fabrication to make it sit right but it did the job perfectly.

I would plumb it so it flows hot into both rads. My thinking is that you will get quicker flow into a bigger core area ( where it can start to be cooled, 2 access points rather than 1) and it will slow the flow through the rad, giving it more time to "heat exchange".

If you want to do a worthwhile session on the dyno, get them to do it against rpm rather than road speed. I find you get so much more info when the printout shows bhp/rpm, bhp/road speed is only useful for waving down the pub and knowing your bike would do 200mph down bullshit hill.

I 'd check the rotor nut/bolt is tight, the rotor is tight onto the crank and just that everything that should be tight is tight and everything that should move moves freely. I'd also check the starter motor mounts. Other than that, primary gear nut on the other end of the crank, clutch basket, maybe the cam chain tensioner. My DR650 is a bit "clanky" on starting as well but all is as it should be.

I'll make this my last comment as this is hijacking this thread. There has been a lot of research into bellmouth design by the industry, tuners and numerous academic institutions regarding length, taper, surface finish and the radius required at the entry point and is backed up by what we see around us in production. They all conclude that the entry point should have a smooth radius and that it should project into an area of "free air". If your tea strainer attaches to the bellmouth at this radius it will have an affect on flow (fact based on research). The reason you've not seen this on the dyno ? Simple, your air intake capability is greater than required by the engine and so can tolerate losses . EG, Your engine can only use 90% of what your air intake will flow so if you compromise the intakes flow by 5% it's not going to notice. If your mesh attaches at a point other than the entry radius and is clear of the entry at all points (which yours does not) it will have less or no effect (but will still not filter much apart from small rocks and passing children). Why did old F1 cars run mesh ? Well, technology has moved on a little since then regarding filtration, airbox design etc etc and the engine were pretty much a service item designed to last to the finish line before a rebuild/refresh . Do modern F1, MotoGP, Superbike engines run open stacks with mesh ? Hands up those who think it's a good idea to build an engine with lots of nice expensive parts and run it on cheap oil. Hands up those that think it's a good idea to run said engine with just a bit of mesh to protect it from ingesting abrasive material. If the dirt found in a dirty air filter is only "soft particles that wouldn't do any harm" why do the factories both fitting filters ?

Rotor tip clearances are somewhat different to those inside an internal combustion petrol engines and rubbing road dirt ( including that that isn't "soft particles") into your paint and polished ali will not mark it. Jet engines also run a good radius around the circumference of the intake nozzle to aid flow and fitting anything in this area disrupts flow. However, we will conclude that that the whole area of research into airflow and filtration is in fact smoke and mirrors and that the motorcycle, car and all other relevant industries have wasted countless time and money developing filters, bellmouths and airboxes when they could have just stuck a tea strainer over the carb. Even before intake noise became an issue due to noise regs.

It's not the area, it's the presence of the mesh in the airflow that causes turbulence in the air column, that's why a bellmouth should project into a filtered area with nothing around the stack opening. This is why stock carb to airbox rubbers don't just end at the airbox wall but actually project into the box. In your case with a bloody great turbo it may not cause too much restriction and, given it's angle to the passing airflow, momentum probably carries large/heavier particles past the intake but it will not perform as well as a well designed bellmouth drawing from a chamber of filtered air. As I said, run whatever filter style you want but, you know all that muck that dirties your bike when you ride it, it's all airborne (even more so when it's raining) .

So where does the muck that dirties an air filter come from ? Never mind the other stuff you often find that has been caught by the airbox before it gets to the filter. Any size mesh over a bellmouth will cause some restriction due to disrupting the smooth airflow nevermind how it ruins the flow around the circumference of the stack. Run whatever filter arrangement you're happy with but air filters have a service life for a reason.

For a bellmouth/stack to work well it needs to have air space all around it's end, not just behind it, so that looks like it could be a decent set up as the stack end appears to to sit into the filters internal space. A bit more "roll round" on the end radius of the stack would be nice tho.

Just check you are getting a good fuel flow out the tap first. It could be clogged up.

Time for a leak down test. If you're lucky you've got a poor valve seal on #2, if not........

Take it off this instant !

One thing regarding m/cylinders and calipers, The front brake on my DR650 was never up to much, more a speed adjuster than a brake, cleaned them both out and serviced everything but to no avail. I was just about to look at a caliper swap when I decided to give them one last chance and dropped them in the ultrasonic tank, Bingo, I have a brake.

It's always worth checking the spring on a tensioner, they are a service item and do wear and compress over time. A good clean, check the ratchet and a new spring will often sort it.

Looks like he did a nice job for you. No silly stuff and nice upgrades where it helps.