bluedog59

I went from stock on a B12 Mk1 to PVM's, AP 6 pots and narrow band discs, Ti bolts on anything and everything that moved or turned on the suspension,ali sprocket with a small rear disc and Harris caliper and mount. Jeez, the difference even on the road is brilliant. steering, flipping side to side, braking and acceleration are vastly improved and less effort. Downsides ? A. Cost.......... but in comparison to other avenues to the same goal with no reliability compromise ? B. Loss of gyroscopic stability ? It can get a little "engaging" on a bumpy,fast B road but a decent damper on it's lowest setting cured that. FBOB. How much of the rear weight difference was down to the disc ? It's is a bit "generous".

Do 90's ?

I don't eat cornflakes. I think it's quite easy to see the reason for my curiosity, there are too many people riding/driving round without having a licence etc. I think jpich85 understands and has said he has done the right thing. We wouldn't want to encourage people to ride unlicensed/uninsured would we ? BTW, Take care when you're out and choose who you ride with very carefully, you can get sucked a long way into a lot of trouble before you know it on a bike like that. Enjoy it but stay safe.

So, did you take some direct access course on a school's bike, pass your test and decide a 120+bhp, modified bike was a perfect first bike ? How did you get insured and how much ? From my experience I would say it's not the best choice and will not aid your skills development. Or did you just not bother ?

May I ask, how is a GSXR1100 your first bike ?

I wouldn't drop the rear suspension (shorter 'bones will raise it), the seating layout would stay the same and you'd just screw up the handling. At a quick glance your seating area is about in the standard place if a touch lower so your footrests should at least be in the ballpark(ish). Have you tried rolling the bars back a little to rotate your upper body back and take a bit of pressure off the nuts/tank interface ? Your levers should be at a position where, if you have a straight line from your elbow, through your wrist to your fingers, your fingers rest on top of the lever. I assume the angle of the seat pad gets steeper with the bike upright, you could alter/add foam in the area you actually sit to level it off a bit. At the end of the day you are going to make changes or accept some compromises because you're trying to turn a bike into something it was never designed to be. How's the jetting with filters and a short exhaust ?

The first thing any bike has to be is rideable, if it's uncomfortable it will distract you from the job in hand. A picture of you sat in a riding position would be very helpful but if you're sliding down the seat into the tank then,chances are, it's too steep. What you looking for with that type of bike is to have your weight distributed between your hands, feet and butt. This gives you 5 points of control without any of them doing all the work. Post a picture and we'll have a look but if it's a pain to ride then it ain't right.

Come on, make with the pics. Have you had it on a dyno ? Full spec/figures ?

Yay, another boiler. Welcome to the "black sheep" corner, mines a wn being wrapped in steel (slowly) BTW. Anybody know of any good hybrid combos you can build out of a good 750 and headless 900 or 1100 engines ( I have both ) ?

Sleeper. I likey.

The lack of a rear shock may raise a few "issues".

This is becoming more of a puzzle than it merits. The seat is going to be a pretty normal alloy seat hump/undertray but fits inside the frame work (sort of exoskeleton ). It will hold all the usual gubbins, cdi,relays,toolkit,Scottoiler but will have hidden mounts so it looks like it just hangs inside the frame.

Nope. More about the seat/bodywork although there will be electrics tucked in there. At the moment I'm toying with the idea of putting the battery on top of the top tube at the back/under the tank. Reason ? I'm thinking of putting a second radiator where the battery is at present so I can make the main radiator a little smaller to give extra front wheel clearance on full bump. The spin off bonus would be that it would actually make the water plumbing easier from the back of the block, through the thermostat and up to the filler. Now I've finished my Hospital bed/bike bench I'm going to give it some time tomorrow.

Ok. First off, I'm no pro at this so I've over engineered this. I'm not bothered about the final weight as it's mainly an exercise in "Can I do it". My prime goals are,1. That it's straight.2. It's well made. If you can't hit those two points then there is no point in using fancy light tube and, as it's my first go, I've used seamless mechanical grade steel in 35mm and 28mm x 2mm wall (the top tube is 60mm, headstock 75mm ). It is TIG welded with steel filter rod, I'll ask my mate for the filler spec but its nothing fancy. Pre and post heat treating ? Nope and not needed I don't think. The best way to avoid stresses and distortion is to make the tubes a perfect fit before welding, if you're welding up a gap it's going to contract and distort/stress. I've cut my tubing on a jig I've made for the milling machine and used a hole saw, the fit being good enough that you could almost fusion weld them with no filler. The joints were tacked round each piece to be done and then finished in an alternating order to avoid heat/distortion/stress. Result ? Frame is less that 0.25mm out front to back. If you want a go at your own frame....... Do it. Things I have found vital ? Make a good/straight jig. Read/look at established frame designs and engineering methods/principals. Set your standard higher than you've done before and stick to it. Never slip into "that'll do". Order more tube than you need, you'll make mistakes. Nope, no under seat pipe or cooling.

Actually it's the length from valve seat to the end of the inlet tract that's important and, as I've lost some of that by running K+N's, adding a little back in maybe helpful.

The problem is not bore size, it's positioning. Do I re-rack the carbs to fit the rubbers or make stubs to fit the carb spacing ? I have a set already stripped to re-space and a very good set in one piece, either/or, which way do I go ? I'm thinking do some stubs, I already have carb to stub rubbers and a set of flanges that fit the head so I just need to join the two with an angle to adjust the spacing. Feel free to dive in with any ideas/suggestions.

Have you looked at CRG GP clutch levers ? Somebody has actually got patents registered for a geared lever assembly.

Any idea what model pipes you need please ?

If the a/f ratio on the dyno says it's rich then weaken it off. lower the needle a clip or half with a thin shim or maybe in on the air screws or down on the pilots. All presuming everything else is serviceable and correct.

Have you taken the snorkel out of the airbox ?

Tying the lever back has a use. You put pressure in the system, you can't compress a fluid but you can compress the air in the system and so the air pressure in any bubbles rises and the bubble are more inclined to rise up in the system. A few taps on the hoses and they'll all be waiting for you when you "waggle the lever" and back bleed it up through the m/c. Been doing it like that for years.

I'm about tomorrow, text me in the morning.

So the slave needs to got left (clockwise) instead. Must be something we can do here.

Try moving your clutch arm and adjusting it so the range of movement is equidistant from the arm at 90 deg. It looks in the picture like it is soon into a falling ratio at the moment.

Maybe a change of master cylinder bore would sort that. Am I right in presuming the slave pulls the clutch arm ?