bluedog59

I take the view that the factories don't rubber mount their coolers for the fun of it so I follow suit. I do however agree with the comment about spacers between the "ears", if you only mount the cooler at the top and don't have spacers then I think that any vibration at the bottom of the cooler will stress the top ( where the core meets the top ) and maybe cause problems.

They're the "Go to" company for most teams in MotoGP, no matter what sponsors stickers the team are running.

Re Wheel bearings, perfect opportunity to fit "captive" spacers, makes wheel changes a lot easier.

That looks rather "full".

How much shorter than stock are they ?

If those USD forks are shorter than stock, running one below the main cooler may present clearance issues.

You could free up some space for a cooler by ditching the huge breather catch tank.

I have Akrapovic full systems for a B12 and a GSXR1100w, they are both 4-2-1. The B12 one is linked 1/4 and 2/3, the 1100 is 1/2 and 3/4. It "could" be that, A. 1/4 and 2/3 suits the torque of the lower revving B12 and 1/2 and 3/4 the higher revving top end of the 1100. Or, B. 1/4 and 2/3 is used on the B12 to help boost where it is weak (top end) and visa versa on the 1100 to bump up it's mid range torque. Time to get some of my tuning books out and do some reading.

Or Castrol A747.

Hmmm, If your sump is for a 4-2 exhaust and will fit a Dot head 750 engine, I may have the Dot sump or a B12 one to swap.

I think my DR may be a little outpaced out on track but, as I only live up the road and there's no chance of me having anything more suitable up and running by then, I'd be happy to come along to if anybody wants a bit of help with spanner twirling and general bike stuff. If you're going on your bike (no van) I could bring paddock type stuff like paddock stands, jerry cans etc if you need them.

Actually, with £400 I'd fit some lighter wheels from a more modern bike. It will accelerate faster, stop better, be easier and more agile through bends and give the suspension an easier time. Loads of worthwhile improvements with zero reliability issues

No point in making 140bhp with a 100bhp chassis and brakes. A good full system exhaust and jet kit is enough for a B12 to start getting out of shape with "enthusiastic" use.

And the RF900.

The good old B12 must surely rank in the top 20 best bikes ever for one simple fact. Despite it being a cheap, basic, "jack of most trades" for Joe Public, the very parts of it that made it such a cheap and basic bike are coveted by the "Cognoscenti" as "upgrades". It's like the "Age UK" of the motorcycling world, the "cast offs" and "hand me downs" of the general populace being used to help the elderly.

5.216 Kg.

Have you got sizes for the Shorai please ?

I think that's a 1200 so do it. Give it some cams and compression, do the fork internals, fit a decent rear shock and go scare the life out the little whipper snappers.

Getting all the joints to fit perfectly before welding is one of the most important things, it cuts down distortion,stress and makes a stronger frame. I would also suggest that you built around a petrol tank you can get hold of, getting one made is bloody expensive.

Thanks. It may be a little "over braced" but it's my first attempt and I've also allowed for fitting a bigger/more powerful. Milling attachments ? I just use a bi-metal hole saw in the chuck and hold the tube in a tilting clamp I've made. Gives a very good joint.

I'm currently (very slowly) having a go. You can find it on page 3 of the watercooled section, "just thought I'd show you a few pics of my 750".

As far as I can measure with a ruler across a bare frame they're 230mm. They do have that threaded adjuster thing on one side though so I'd think you could go +/- 2mm on that.

And remember to flow the cleaning water from back to front. Washes the crud out the fins rather that further in.

Remember that you'll need more fork extension than the size of block you put under the wheel due to fork angle.

I thinks those forks are a pair of RSU46's out of a Bimota SB6. 70mm is a lot to extend forks by with a screw in extension, you could go for a 45mm stepped yoke, a 25mm fork extension and the clamp area of the yoke 30mm deep. This will give you the extra 70mm length and the joint between the extension and the leg is supported and covered by the yoke. There's a service manual at www.kvenna.net/Doc/PaioliRSU.html