bluedog59

In an insulated box............. could be body parts.

Could somebody tell me the distance between the mounting bolt centres and are they all the same please ? Ta muchly.

Surely not the first time you've spoken without moving your lips.

Looks like it means business already.

If it's the diaphragm for the fuel cut off, maybe you could blow it out with an airline on the vacuum pipe to the carbs.

If the back wheel isn't in the air, you're not braking hard enough.

You don't actually need a "stem" as such, a spigot top and bottom and a means of pulling the two together is sufficient.

Have you checked the vent in the petrol cap ?

WN temp gauge ?

It's worth speaking to K-Tech as they sometime have good used Stanchion for sale. Last time I spoke to them they had a pair for an 1100w but I can't remember which thread.

Darley moor isn't that far if you want a hand.

Cool. What mods are you allowed ? I think that can will have to go and don't go for a short one, you'll lose power.

Good man ! You'll enjoy it and be skint. If you're at Donington or Mallory and need a spanner man give me a shout.

On a bit of a tangent, has anybody thought of/ made a set of face plates (the bit you bored out ) for VM29's with a 3D printer ? You could have 33mm and still be able to put them back to stock.

I assume you're saying that his 29's are bored out to 33 which would hand a "top end" advantage to the 36's however, I think the 29's (unbored) would still retain a lot of their advantage out of slow corners. Swings and roundabouts, just like I said earlier. The only way to sort it is dyno and track test both.

IIRC, one of my "heavyweight" chassis tech books says something about 16 deg but I can't remember if it was laden or unladen.

That could also be true, it's one of those things where what may appear obvious may not actually be correct. Your point about the less "punchy" response of CV's is also important, when you start to make big bhp/ltr an engine will generally become more "peaky" and you may gain a little more bhp with slides but CV's make it more rideable. Which leads to my question of having both types and swapping according to weather/circuit, you can bet the rule makers have done their sums and concluded there is little or no clear advantage over the season as the pendulum swings between advantage and disadvantage................................ unless you play smart and track that pendulum. Rule 1 of building a race bike. Read what the rule book says. Rule 2 of building a race bike. Read what the rule book doesn't say. Perhaps, if R1guy is willing, we could rustle up a set of each so he can dyno and track test both options

If the regs say "either/or" then you can bet they have researched that there is no clear advantage either way. Why not have both and swap according to circuit/weather ? CV's maybe bigger but that throttle butterfly is always in the airflow, taking up space and disrupting flow.

The only things I can think of are, Check clearance if you go that low that it's in front of the downpipes and maybe airflow being blocked a little by the wheel/brakes etc.

My thoughts are that you could be looking at oil leaks or snapped bolts. Maybe making them rubber mounts like the lower fronts on the bottom rail would help.

I was thinking of "as well as front mount" rather than "instead of". Just thinking of losing the the bottom rails . Did the JMC conversion abandon the M8's or just add the front mounts ?

I'm sure I've seen people using the 4 M8 oil bolts on the head as engine mounts, anybody got any experience or anything ? Ta Muchly.

Are they at least as good as stock up to the top end ? 4/2/1 pipe , filters/airbox ? what were the setups please ?

Interesting. It just shows how much CV and airbox design has come on.

As I said "Can't say I like it" and " IMO".