Dezza

An MOT certifies officially that (in the opinion of a single tester) a vehicle is roadworthy at the time of the test. 10 minutes after the test it may well be deemed unroadworthy for various reasons. This point of logic has always held when inspecting secondhand vehicles with the intention of buying them for as long as I can remember, and I am sure insurance company loss adjusters use it too.

Do you mean SP125? Have a search on the part number to see what models take that specific part to broaden your search. My guess is several DRs and SPs may use it. If all else fails then there are people who fix CDIs. Why do you think you need a replacement CDI? Your bike isn't strictly covered on this site and first posts asking for parts are generally frowned upon so don't be surprised if this thread gets deleted. Read the rules (on General) and when you progress to an old Suzuki four please post some pics

The part numbers are provided on the schematic diagram in the RS manual (freely available). Then call Allens and tell the bloke who answers what you want and order over the phone

It would be interesting to see the 1100g shafty thingy sump and oil pick-up, as if it has it's own unique design it may give additional flexibility for getting exhaust downpipes and collectors to fit other oil cooled bike. If you end up removing it, please post pics

I'm looking at the RS manual now and in the data table it states that RS34 (for oil cooled Suzukis),36 and 38 all have 42mm spigots, that RS34 for some FZ600 have 38mm spigots, RS34s for (later?) FZ600, Kawasaki 600/750 (wc?) have 40mm spigots. The only RSs spaced to fit oil cooled Suzukis that do not have 42mm spigots are RS40, which have 44mm spigots. The RS manual is freely available on interwebs. The data on the table on the sticky only relates to oil cooled Suzukis and therefore does not need amending

I use a Motion Pro twistgrip and cables for RS38s. The set up works fine but the quality of parts are not 100%. E.g. I had to modify one cable slightly so the adjuster turned freely on the cable sheath or else the adjuster couldn't adjust. The cables where they meet the housing are also bulky. I use clipons and a Brembo race radial m/c and have to position the brake lever between the two cables. A more 'normal' m/c and flat-ish bars may have presented a problem. If I was putting flatslides on another bike I think I'd try and use a push-pull separate twistgrip housing that's an OEM fitting for another bike, e.g. Hond@ fartblade, and then try and mix and match opener and closing cables from other bikes depending on the lengths required.

Maybe email Allens carbs in Bingham. They are usually pretty helpful and helped me move my throttle bracket from the centre to between carbs 3 and 4 (RS38), no new parts needed. To move the throttle bracket to one side of the bank on RSs requires some different parts (one is the throttle rod thingy i think), which are listed in the RS manual. Perhaps the equivalent parts are available for TMRs.

Unless you specifically require 50mm spacing between the mounting bolts, you can buy a brand new rear Brembo rear master cylinder for 55 quid, which is re-buildable. Secondhand ones are obviously cheaper. Personally, I wouldn't bother with a cheap part especially on the brakes. The real deal is always the way forward and often cost-effective to achieve.

gsxr1100 g/h BST34s had those weird 'rail' brackets holding the rack together. Powerscreen and 1100j had conventional rails (as in the pic above), but only the j had a choke knob. Powerscreen had a cable choke so those carbs are 1100 j or powerscreen with a modified choke mechanism . The important carb internal bits are all much of a muchness though, BST34 although as Wraith states there are some minor variations.

OK Paul. First I'll call him and ask if he can help or not and then get back to you with what bikes I will bring.

That would be great. Thanks Clive My friend who lives down the road (Spadge on OSS) may want to come so I may be able to bring both bikes; he could drive my car and trailer and I'd ride one bike but he may not be able to make it as he works shifts.

I was working on one of my bikes earlier and during a parts search found another box of switch debris. It contained some contacts and springs. The smaller ones have 2 conical raised parts and the larger one three. There were also some mini springs. All parts are from an old EFE/kat left switch. These contain many of these parts due to their multi-function (and idiotic design). Would any of these be the missing items from your switch?

I've used these in the past and they're good although not exactly cheap. They have kits for the 750 Katana, which may have the same carbs as your bike. https://www.litetek.co/index.html

Sounds like you're going to have to modify your throttle linkage/bracket.

8.4 metres! Sheer luxury. The turning circle of my Spondon is similar to that of a cruise liner What yokes are you using? If they've got less offset than stock items this will be a major contributor to the lack of steering lock.

I'll very likely be attending and will bring one bike, maybe two if I can get a hand putting one on my trailer Still not 100% though.

Sorry: nothing like the contact you need

This may help. It's in English https://sites.google.com/site/suzukitechnical/suzuki/sacs-enginecodes

ZZR 1100 sprockets have different splines to Suzuki air and oil cooled bikes (which have the same splines). Obviously, this is a very poor show and incredibly inconsiderate of Kawasaki It's the later Kawas (e.g. ZX6R) that have the same splines as Suzukis although none have dished sprockets like the ZZR1100. Some do have a sort of offset sprocket but the splined bit is really thick.

I have a box of old switch parts. I can look tomorrow if there's anything like that in there

A 170 tyre will also go on a 5.5 rim, which will make things easier.

To say this is interesting is an understatement. Fairly priced too, even on the cheap side. https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/134638135520?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20221115143614%26meid%3D50e5796101c6427683e2de2c0f201777%26pid%3D101616%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D185787364222%26itm%3D134638135520%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D4375194%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2%26brand%3DHarris&_trksid=p4375194.c101616.m5481&_trkparms=parentrq%3A1b36e9f71890a8ce7bc3ae43fffd9d00|pageci%3A24a59780-1989-11ee-a74c-327ecb0c0023|iid%3A1|vlpname%3Avlp_homepage

You can use Kawasaki shims too. When I did my zzr1100 the local bike shop would supply shims on an exchange basis, and the shim GSXR and zzr items were interchangable. Those for each make have slightly different sizing increments, which made getting the clearance spot on or nearly spot on easier. The zzr also uses the same rocker method - you simply slide the fork rocker to one side against the spring and lift up to secure. It's an ingenius design that negates all the hassle of cam removal.

Carb strip and clean, air filter clean and new plugs seem to have solved the strop so I will try and be there

The ones with the metal bit in that are something like 8 quid each?