Dezza

The cdi connections will differ. If you use the slabby cdi you'll have to change the ignition rotor and pick up too. The slabby timing is slightly different low down and may liven up the engine a little (this works on a B12 engine).

To run the engine with no cooler you have to link the cooler holes using a spare oil cooler hose and fittings that's long and flexible enough or making one if you have some bits lying around. For a compression test you may be able to get way with simply blanking the takeoff holes though. Personally, I'd try and link them if possible .

What's marvel (apart from us comic book enterprise)?

I have a full fairing on my Mag 2 and one drawback is heat: you have to be moving at a reasonable speed in summer or it starts to get very hot. In traffic in summer and it's unpleasant. The heat is directed up at the rider. I think this is why when you see pics of the old aircooled endurance bikes they often have the bottom parts of the fairing removed. At race speed at the Bol in the south of France and the heat would zap power and melt the rider. When its cold though it's great .

How much is it? The engine alone is worth a lot so if it's cheap enough it may be cost effective to buy to break for spares.

If you switch the HT leads between 2 and 3, does it still fire on 2? Or does the problem move?

Gaiters and jubilee clips also a big favourite at MOT time for some, seeing as testers can't see if the seals are leaking.

Philpots will organize collection and delivery to your door, and for USD, will remove and refit the bottom of the fork, which clearly eliminates all the hassle of doing this potential pig of a job at home .

Just don't say Katana to mean an 1100 powerscreen. And going by the above posts, the ultimate OSS faux pas would be to build a 7/11 750 g.i.x.x.e.r. with an 1100 katana engine, and describing it using US colloquialisms

BST34 = slabby 1100, powerscreen 1100; BST 36 = 1200 blandit, GSXR 1100k,l; GSXR750 j,k; 750 teapot. Variations within carb type, even when size is the same. See sticky in oilcooled .

Dunno about the rattle but oil- and aircooled engines have the same inlet spacings so oil-cooled carbs can be relatively easily mounted on an aircooled engine. Rubbers, tank and tap clearance and jetting will depend on carb/engine/chassis combo .

Are they Wheels of Steel? I'll get me coat........

I quite like the swingarm: it's the real deal, period correct. My guess it's going to look a whole lot better refurbished and on the bike that's all put together correctly rather than in its previous cobbled-together bodge-up state .

Ruff

Does it have a bespoke alloy tank to fit the frame? It's difficult to see from the pics. Also, if it used to have a GT750 engine in it, won't the mounts have to be altered in order to fit a whopping great aircooled GS/GSX four?

Where are you located? NRP exhausts near Ollerton did me a bespoke stainless 4-2-1 with downpipes of two different diameters - smaller coming out of exhaust port then enlarged half way down like on race bikes. He made it to fit as tight to the bike as possible so it went within my fairing. All for 400 quid (I kid you not but this was before covid). He specialises in pipes for classic race bikes and is one of the few people out there that undercharges. A system designed for a Blandit is likely to require a Blandit sump, which means your oil cooler fittings are going to need changing too .

80mph at 4k obviously means 160mph at 8k so if the bike revs out in top (9.5k??) that's a mighty fast bike (190mph). That's going to need a whole lotta power, good aerodynamics and weight reduction to achieve. Tachos and speedos are notoriously inaccurate though. My guess is that goes with GPS speedos too .

It is mandatory on any OSS bike that a larger (preferably aftermarket) oil-cooler with fancy fittings is fitted, and for oil cooled bikes whenever possible, an additional head cooler too .

To answer the OP: does it matter? They both weigh a ton! It's Big Daddy v Giant Haystacks.

Often so but this isn't as much a pain-in-the-arse as it first seems. Both may Harris and Spondon framed bikes need the engine to be removed in order to take the cam cover off but the lack of a frame cradle means that after removal of the ancillaries and the engine mounting bolts, the chassis can be simply lifted easily off the engine (when engine is securely supported). With practice this is pretty fast an easy, especially with help from someone who knows their way around bikes. Some P and M frames require the cylinder head to be removed in order to get the engine in and out though, which seems bonkers to me.

I didn't know Wurth did wheel paint. Any UK links? Their stuff is always really good.

They do look a more elegant set-up than the newer units, located behind the cylinder head rather than behind the front wheel though.

Try eb@y. They're cheaper if you get them in bulk, 10 at a time. 2 years isn't too bad. Brake fluid absorbs water from the air so water contaminated fluid is bad for brake components all round. Ally brake fittings are OK for road bikes but don't like neglect.

I'd much prefer that Spondon to any new 200bhp out-of-the-box 20 grand plus bike that looks the same as all the other 20 grand 200bhp out-of-the-box bikes, even if it had a stock GSX1100 engine in it