Dezza

Yep fine, apart from two lorries smashing into each other and then blocking the M42 near to east midlands airport

Tis ace. I've seen it

750f early slabby (hydraulic) or 750f teapot (cable)? Both engines use a pushrod that will work with both cable and hydraulic covers, which are both available with and without the ability to accept a speedo sensor. As you state, later 1200 blandits have the speedo sensor for hydraulic but later 600 blandits and teapots are cable with sensor.

I agree with the points made in your original post

Yep, make a battery cable type lead with an M6 hole connector on one end to go onto one starter mounting hole and then connect the other end to the frame. I used an M10 to go onto an engine mount.

If you want to replace the 32mm bonsai carbs then the obvious choice would be to use the carbs and rubbers from a 1200 Blandit. Using GSXR rubbers will bring the carbs closer to the head if there are airbox fitting issues. There is a little bit of carb info here. It's a sticky at the top of this section

A remote earth lead direct from the starter to the frame may help because it will bypass any dodgy connection between the frame and engine cases. This worked wonders on my Harris .

I use these carb kits. Not the cheapest but good quality and not he insane prices of OEM . These bits for the 1000 kat look like they're for the CV carb version, not the 'slide' smoothbore type (as for UK model). https://www.litetek.co/Carb_Kit_Suzuki_GS1000S_Katana_82-83.html

Anyone know who actuallly built the oil-cooled six? Obviously, most on OSS want the details as to how it was done .

One for a 1200 Blandit will also do, freely available new from Suzuki

Which ones do you need? For the engine covers they're the same as the Bandit 1200/GSXR 1127 engines. 1052 slabsides are the same except for the starter clutch cover. For the top end, my guess is the head and base gaskets are the same as for all 1127 engines but I am not 100% sure . Many decent makes available e,g cosmic resuable ones if you don't want to shell out for OEM.

Orange green is switched positive, black/white earth and black/red the tacho sensor wire. The black red needs to go to the yellow/black which comes from one of the coils (assuming from memory the colour codes are the same as for bigger Suzukis ). I now need another can of Fuller's London Pride.

630s do look cool though as they are just so massive

What upshot says: the 1100 slabby has a unique slimline cam cover (magnesium) that has an integral breather. This makes the engine slightly shorter than other 1100/1200 engines .

+1 - For an 1100 slabby ignition on a 1200 blandit it's easiest if you have the slabby CDI in addition to the slabby rotor and plate. That's what I use and it works well

If you find the genuine workshop manuals for each bike from which the cdi is sourced, then you can find the advance retard and rev limit data for each model. These definitely vary among models, even those of similar capacity e.g. 1100 slabby v 1127 slingshot. Manuals as pdfs available from usual sources .

Pics? 84 GSX 1100E could mean several models. Sky is your lobster (I love mixed-metaphors); picture in your head how you want the bike to look. The only limits to achieve this are depth of your pockets and imagination . And yes, I have been drinking.

Yep, I don't think I've even seen a steel-framed Bakker on the road!

There's an interesting Bakker GS1000 project on eb@y at the moment but it's a bit spendy. https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/285574337457?hash=item427d8e93b1:g:lMQAAOSwZTllYI7-

I couldn't find any Simoniz engine paint in satin . I thought they only did the super-shiny gloss and the matt.

What's a shock needle? On my Ohlins the shock doesn't even need to be compressed in order to remove the spring. Simply backing off the adjuster does the trick.

Ace : did you have to buy any specialist tools in order to strip and then rebuild the shock?

Replica tank in alloy?

Have you tried swapping the ignition components from a bike known to run well, rather than the 1000 that runs badly? Most parts don't even have to be GS specific, e.g. a good set of 3 ohm coils, leads, caps, new plugs and so on. Last time I have a similar fault (1100 efe) it was the CDI. It sparked when checked in the normal way but presumably not under compression and ran on only 3 cylinders.

Really? Even a big aircooled lump like an EFE revs a little higher than that, although not by much. (Which is a definite plus .)