Dezza

Have you serviced your OEM calipers and master cylinder, and then fitted decent modern brake pads and stainless braided hoses? This can make a big difference and is a good starting point.

Slink Glides are a quality product at a fraction of the cost of OEM. I have one of their clutch cables and it's really good. They also have stainless inners, unlike OEM

Try a Slinky Glide cable from Wemoto, after first checking that the inner part of the one you have isn't bone dry/corroded.

It's on the shelf next to the sky-hooks, elbow grease, and the black and white striped paint

Yes, this is why I asked - I saw you on your bike riding on the track . What needs to be done via the VJMC? Do you have to be a member?

Are the display bikes eligible to participate in the parade laps?

What are the OEM part numbers on the rubbers you have and can you take one off and measure it, i/d and the length (where it meets the head to the edge where the carb goes in). I have a box full of rubbers and they aren't all like concrete and I'd be surprised that there isn't a usable set in there that will accommodate BST36 carbs. My guess is many on here have the same so probably no need to struggle fitting carbs into rock-solid rubbers or paying a small fortune for new OEM items.

They may be imports, which have variations in the wiring looms, especially for the main light switches. The slabby workshop manual (proper Suzuki, not Haynes etc.) has all the different wiring diagrams in it and is freely available for nothing on interwebs. That's the first place I would go. You could then deduce if each loom is from a non-UK spec bike or not and then go from there. The light switches also differ, with some not having the P function, only on/off.

Sell fartblade. Use funds to buy another air or oilcooled Suzuki, then do a stick-coil conversion. Also, please post pics of turbo Katana

That sounds like a good idea. I wonder if doing the silicon spray/ziplock bag thing and then leaving the bags in direct sunlight all day (weather permitting) would enhance the effects. Or put them in a car that is parked in direct sunlight (this springs to mind because the inside of my car at the moment is like an oven inside.)

That must be fun having to use this method taking the carbs on and off when setting a bike up on a dyno

EFE stands for most awesome bike engine ever made, obviously

You could try some Blandit 12 rubbers for comparison. There must be bucket loads of them out there. It's the rubbers for BST38s that are really difficult to source now as you know. I have a box full of oil cooled carb rubbers so getting an OEM set that will fit and aren't like concrete shouldn't be too difficult. GSXR rubbers for some 750s are definitely shorter than those for the Blandit, bringing the carbs closer to the head by 5mm but I don't know about ones for the 1100s.

Instead of using a fan heater try a hot air gun. You'll be able to get the rubbers much hotter and more flexible but maybe try this out first on a set of spare rubbers so you know exactly how much heat is required. The carbs have to be on the engine first but it seems like a good idea to try a few times with them off the bike so you get a good feel as to how much force is needed to get them on. If it's really tight then you may have to heat the rubbers, slide the carbs in behind the head, and then try to get more heat into the rubbers again before dropping the gun and then getting the carbs on before the rubbers cool. I agree that a little red grease on the inlet stubs also helps. Also,what is your carb rubber/carb combo?

Look on the Torques list on eb@y for BSP to AN8 adapters, then use AN8 fittings on the hose as normal.

Maybe borrow another gauge or preferably two. You'd then be able to see any effects of measurement error due to variation in the readings from different gauges. I have a Sealy gauge and it seems fine but next time I do a compression test I'll try and borrow others for comparison

What is the variation among all four cylinders? Did you take the readings when the engine was warm? Has the guage always been reliable? It may be something simple like a low-reading / sticking guage.

My oil cooled bike has a 19 row main cooler (top fittings) and a smaller head cooler (in seat) and together they retain almost exactly 1 litre of oil when the oil is drained through the sump. To get it all out requires cooler removal.

Crankcase repairs aren't exactly uncommon, especially in classic racing: by far the majority of TZ750s have repaired cases. A cracked engine mount is a minor case repair that is easily sorted by someone who knows what they're doing

A very good result (hear me out). If the nut or washer had got in somewhere and locked the back wheel at speed it could have all ended in tears or worse. But it didn't .

I use ones from a GSXR 750 k1 and they work well.

No, I made it up as a derivative of fab. Increased fabness .

Fab - would be fabber with a period correct exhaust can .

If you fit a rose joint to each end, with the gear lever and splined thingy both set at the correct angle you can then measure between the rose joint centres for your specific application .