Dezza

Using a stainless steel bracket instead of an alloy bracket helps eliminate any problems caused by vibration. I have a ss bracket mounting a generic oil cooler on my Harris framed efe with no rubber mounts and have never had any problems.

Anything with a 'bond' suffix is just threebond in a different tube at an even higher price than generic threebond (which isn't exactly cheap).

The early Magnum frame kits were supplied with De Carbon shocks. From the mid-80s on they changed to White Power shocks. The WP shocks often crop up on Eblag but I have never seen one that doesn't require a rebuild. This would cost in the region of £200 depending on what parts needed replacing. I think Harris currently supply Magnum frame kits with a Nitron shock. I know right up until they were asset stripped by Norton, Spondon were supplying their frame kits with Nitron shocks due to the cost of Ohlins so one of these may be a cost-effective option.

Shop 97 in Finland do the seats so they may know where to get a fairing.

The connectors within blocks can still be loose even if the blocks themselves are good. This is especially the case with the spade sort used on CDIs and the like. I had a problem that I couldn't work out what was wrong. On an efe, 2 block connectors plug directly into the CDI. The spade connector on one block must have been loose because when I renewed the connectors all was fine even though originally both blocks fitted tightly into the CDI.

I was indeed thinking of EC as he made my headers. His interweb site is still active so I assume he is still active.

Custom made in stainless will be less than £750.

Will be OK then, especially if using it outside. I will be very interested to know how much 99% DCM has to be added to what is now sold as 'paint stripper' in order for it to actiually remove paint. I have some so-called industrial stuff but it still doesn't work as well as Nitromors did 25years ago.

It will probably be a good idea to be very careful working with concentrated DCM. This stuff will be absorbed directly through the skin and is used in cell biology as a solvent for flourescent dyes to stain some biological structures (this is when I have used this stuff), as it allows the dye to penetrate deep into the structure so it can be seen easily under a microscope. The vapour is probably not as bad as many other common organic solvents but latex gloves are required in labs when this is used. It should get your PC off though when you get the correct concentration in the DCM-free paint stripper.

I would experiment with different concentrations of additional DCM. Take some of the 0.1% paint stripper and make some approximately 10 times more concentrated, so you have a gloopy gel of 1% concentration. It may not sound much but in the gel form it will stay in contact with the paint for much longer than the 99% stuff, as the 99% stuff is much more volatile and evaporates quickly. If that doesn't work you could try increasing the concentration.

I agree, putting a bronzed welded/ braised frame on a bonfire is probably not a good idea.

FB, have you tried adding some of the DCM to some paint stripper? The problem with paint stripper not working is because DCM has been removed. The consistency and other chemicals of the paint stripper, with DCM back in, should work in unison to work as paint stripper of old. Because paint stripper is a gloopy gel, you may not get the problem of the DCM evaporating quickly, especially if you cover the part covered in the paint stripper (with added DCM) with newspaper or cling film to reduce the effects of drying. An acetone/cellulose thinners mix kills paint but I haven't tried it on PC. You can fill a container with it, drop your part in, and then put a lid on it and leave it overnight. Maybe worth a try . This concoction really stinks but not if you use a Force 8 mask with chemical filters (not as expensive as you may think). I use mine all the time and wish I bought one years ago.

As MB says above. Depending on what the powder coating is on, it can be removed by heat. If it's on steel and heat treatment is not going to bugger anything up, a great way to remove powder coating is to chuck whatever needs stripping on a bonfire. This worked brilliantly the last time I stripped some PC. When cooled down anything still on just drops off when brushed lightly with a wire brush.

Nice bike. Expanding on what Rene says, what exactly is the problem with your bike? Also, what is the current set up regarding the suspension and tyres? There may be a way to solve your problem by making changes to your existing set up without making any radical changes. Your bike does not have any unusal mods on it but without knowing exactly what the problems are it is difficult to suggest solutions.

Aren't GSXR headers a smaller bore than those for aircooled bikes? If so, even if GSXR pipes fit an efe they may bugger up the power characteristics of the motor.

Open - it says in the destruction sheet that came with my compression tester.

Widest is usually not the optimal fitting for tyres, especially on old bikes. A modern tyre (matched pair) of the correct size for the rim is the way to go. When I ran stock wheels I always called either SMD tyres or Sharples (are they still in business?) to ask the tyre gurus their opinions.

OK, thanks. Presumably the red things are covers for the originals.

Please post details of said customs auction website

Nerd question - what bleed nipples are you using for you Spondon 4 pot calipers?

Going further from what ST says, I suppose it depends on the material the frame is made out of, and how the frame was made. With a Harris frame you can get a good result working with the lugs weleded on by Harris and using alloy sheet/plate to mount things on, e.g. coils. I would also add that it also depends on what the intended outcome on building the bike will be. The devil is always in the detail and for example on an alloy framed bike, ancillaries mounted on welded-on lugs trump those bolted to frame spars when someone has obviously drilled a hole into the spar and then tapped a thread in the (relatively) thin alloy.

Worn key? If you have a spare key try that. If you eventualy get it undone the lock can be intestigated in detail as to what is causing the problem.

What about a sprocket carrier with the cush drive in? Many aftermarket wheels use this 'arse-about-face' method, e.g. Dymag, Marchesini, Marvic, Tecnomagnesio. The rubber inserts (available from e.g. Dymag) are set into a sprocket carrier and go over the heads of large Allen bolts screwed into the wheel hub.

Hel probably buy theirs from China for £38-50 a go on Eblag, put a sticker on, then flog them for £300 a pop

Does it have an invisible rear brake caliper? Anyway, what make is the rear master cylinder? It is hard to make out but it looks like it has a dinky integral fluid reservoir that I like