Dezza

Many thanks! I will send you a PM

Some billet ones, that take GSXR1100 K forks. I was going to flog the whole lot together. The yokes really need some sculpturing with a milling machine to reduce weight as they weigh a ton. They also have some risers welded on (pretty well) which are not to my taste, although these could be removed and the top yoke milled flat. I can't post pics as I am currently in China and will be until mid-December.

Great! Cheers FB

Do the bottom yoke stems vary among GSXR 1100 models, e.g. the slabside models, the K, and the L,M,N models with USD forks? The reason I ask is I want to fit some yokes that are presently stemless to a Spondon frame that had yokes (billet) fitted with what I think is a GSXR 1100K stem. I do not want the billet yokes and as is obvious, they will be easiest to get rid of if they still have a stem attached. What I need to know is if GSXR 1100 stems are interchangeable among different 1100 frames because if so, if the one I have fits, then any other 1100 stem should also fit, and could be sourced to enable me to fit my new yokes. Many thanks in advance for any input.

Remove sump, repair thread, refit sump with new drain plug and aluminium washer (the plugs only cost £3 or so from Suzuki and fit multiple models).

Covering up your fancy new bracket?

Yes, I thought about that but it costs a bomb and I'm tight, and it's not Oldskool enough for someone like me - it's just too cool and trendy

Won't fitting the Bandit cams reduce the power of the GSXR motor? Or maybe more grunt lower down the rev range is needed?

I have a similar problem. The answer is to use a titchy aftermarket ignition switch, but finding a decent quality one is easier said than done. I am still looking after several years trying

FBOAB told me that 750 and 1100 motors have different numbers of cooling fins, which makes sense to me, and is a good way to guesstimate the height of these engines relative to each other. It can be seen clearly from the pics above, this is true.

Nice neat solution. Mine's still going under the seat though to appease my vanity

What are you allowed in the rules for your race class?

Anything that isn't wavy

The rear lights will probably work on the pilot light circuit. At least they will if they are the same as the efe wiring and it's a UK model with a pilot light. The US models do not have this. Do the pilot lights on the front work? If not it's something common to both the PL and main lights at the front. First check with a multimeter to see if you have current/earth at the block connector where the main loom and front light loom join.

It's a really nice bike but I prefer the ESD, pictures of which are going around at the moment. They'd both be better with round instead of wavy discs too, as would all bikes but that's just my preference. Great big expanses of carbon fibre also do not really suit older bikes, but again each to their own.

Or most intelligent footballer

Yep, it's nasty stuff. If you haven't seen it already I'd recommend Breaking Bad. Walt uses it prolifically throughout all 5 series. It's effects are exaggerrated for entertainment value, which were tested, for more entertainement value, in one episode of Myth Busters (obviously the sort of shit I like watching....).

Yes, that sounds like hydroflouric acid. It should be kept in plastic and clearly labelled. It gives off a poison gas when it reacts with most substances too. Definitely not something to keep under the kitchen sink.

Yep, as Clive says water is fine.

No, they did them for all carbs. I still have one fitted in the stock carbs on my bike which has an efe engine. It runs well with s and b filters and an unrestrictive exhaust (when I can be arsed to balance the carbs). Apparently it's all in the little brass air corrector jets supplied with the kit. You got a blind tap with the kit and had to tap a thread into the small outlet facing away from the engine on each carb. Then change the main jets and away you go. Might need some alteration with the needles but nothing like all this dynojet kit faffing about, at about 1/3rd the cost of dynojet (when each were sold at the same time).

It's not Harris. I would bet on a modified Davida Moto swingarm from the mid to late 80s. Shame magnets don't work on pictures. Davida arms are steel whereas those from JMC etc are alloy.

Do you mean the solution you used actually dissolved part of the glass container? If so It may be hydroflouric acid.

Shiney M and P bolt-on bling style anodising will come off if the part is left in a caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) solution for about 3-4 minutes, then rubbed with wire wool. Caustic soda granules are freely available as it's a common drain cleaner. It's a strong alkali but treat in the same way as handling acids. Hard anodising takes a bit more effort to remove and the same process needs to be repeated multiple times. If the part is left in the solution for too long, the solution will begin to dissolve the alloy itself so this is why it's best to repeat a 'short soak' several timnes rather than leave the part in the solution for longer if hard anodising is being removed.

Such a shame there is no current equivelent of the Ledar induction kit. So simple but yet so effective.

The 848/1098 range have rock-hard rear suspension - I had a 1098s and even when modified it was almost unrideable on most B roads. I suspect an 848 shock will definitely need a softer spring. The 1098s had an Ohlins shock as standard. The spring needs changing though (unless you are the same size as Giant Haystacks) and a new collar needs to be fitted so the spring preload can be backed off.