Dezza

Do you have a 750 DOT head that you may not need? If so I would be interested in buying it if it comes complete.

Do you have anything you have just painted to watch drying?

Ikon are rebranded Koni shocks and seem reasonably priced. I think if I was building a twin shock bike I would look there or at the recently introduced Nitron twin shocks. Anything with an Ohlins sticker and a yellow spring seems to have a ridiculous price tag attached to it.

This is all I can find. Each of the sprocket mounting holes was pretty large ~25mm in diameter, into which was pressed a nylon insert with ~15mm hole in the middle. At the back of each insert was a top hat spacer, the outer diameter of which was about the same as the washers in the picture. The inside face of these fitted up against the wheel hub. The protruding part of the top hat went through the hole in the middle of the nylon insert. The hole in the middle of the top hat took the sprocket mounting bolt, 12mm. The washer bolted up tight and overlapped the edge of the nylon so it all clamped up tight. The sprocket rotation was damped a little by the nylon, not much but enough. The mounting bolts had to be loctitied in or they would come loose. Hope this helps.

I will look. I sold the wheels years ago (doh) but I may have some pictures.

My first point of call would be somewhere with ex-Spondon employees (other than Norton) - Derby Racing Services and GIA spring to mind.

The solution is to have nylon inserts fitted into the sprocket that act as a cush drive. Spondon did this for me many moons ago on a race Dymag that came out of an FZ750 Superstock bike.

I used a plastic right-angled connector obtained at an autojumble for 50p and some transparent fuel pipe of the appropriate diameter. You can then easily change the direction the pipe takes from the top of the cam cover. This is on an efe motor but it is similar in principle to GSXRs/blandits although the spigot exits directly backwards (straight into my frame tube, hence the right-angled bit). This is much cheaper than using the braided approach and probably weighs half. Also, it soon becomes obvious how much moisture is expelled from the engine via this top breather as the pipe is clear.

What about one of those Cagiva thingies that had the TL1000 engine? Or was that my imagination?

Many thanks - I will try one.

Please share source of £38-50 including postage 19 row -8 oil cooler

There's a pukka race job for sale at a more realistic price of under 20 big ones. If a dealer sees it it will be up on Eblag soon for 25. http://www.cmrf.co.uk/smf/index.php/topic,10005.0.html

Sounds like a 750 is the way to go. I'd be amazed if that Harris frame wouldn't cope easily with 150bhp+ though

It's never worth having a smaller engine except in exceptional circumstances

What he said - if you have the head off, it should be fairly striaghtforward to get the thread repaired to a high standard.

Discs will bolt straight on. The spacing format is common to many Suzukis, even some pukka race bikes like late model RG500s. Dymag wheels such as those 5 spoke jobs come with their own sprocket carrier/cush drive. Some of the early 3 spoke wheels had the sprocket bolting directly to the wheel.

The reason I ask is I just painted one of my magnesium wheels (mainly so corrosion is prevented after a repair exposed bare magnesium) and it looks a bit orange-peely. It was a can job, although I do use U-pol cans. It had an intial coat of etch primer and then multiple coats of white. It has a single clear coat now. Painting wheels does my head in as the shape is so awkward - it's either orange-peel or I get a run Maybe I can now try the 2000 grit paper (I have some in the shed) and then polish, which will have to be done by hand as the wheel shape makes it hard to get to all of the surface easily (a five spoke job). I do know not to use T-cut though.

I'll try the 2000 grade wet and dry then. What polish do you use after sanding?

What do you use to cut back clear coat? As for Harris stickers, it is always worth a phone call to ask Harris for them. I got a load of the frame stickers sent for free. The same ones have been sold on Eblag for 5 quid a pop.

Looks like after that bottom pic was taken you may have needed a spare set of leathers/change of undercrackers. Good luck in the contest

Nice demo Let me know how much when you want to sell it

The Harris frame is designed to be used with the Harris swingarm so is unlikely to work that well without it. If you call Harris then they would tell you directly if what you want is possible. Don't bother emailing as they never reply.

EFE head currently on Eblag.

Sounds like a good idea re: the 750 as a test seeing as the frame was designed for a 750 motor, albeit a larger air-cooled one. Anyway, have you compression tested the motor you may be selling? When you decide on what you want for it send me a PM.

How much do you want for the engine and does it come with a starter motor and alternator? Are you fitting a 750 as the bandit 12 is too tall for that Harris frame?