Dezza

The pegs and pedals (at least the brake side) are Harris. I am not sure about the mounting plates though. One offs?

His thread in trick frames on his Harris F1 has information on making your own oil cooler kit without having to pay a fortune for similar with an Earls sticker on it. There are many coolers on Eblag to choose from.

Plenty of aftermarket coolers available. I think FBOAB has a good idea with using some of the really good value ones from China. There seems little point in spending a fortune on one just because it has an 'Earls' or similar sticker on what was probably made in China anyway. Each to their own though

Great colour scheme - makes a nice change from Heron or Blue/White team colours. I agree, why the fake pipes?

I live close by so I will come over if possible.

Any efe special on here MUST have an aftermarket oil cooler. Maybe a rule amendment is in order

I think those exhausts as on the cool black gs are sold by Grumpy on Eblag. There's one on that tiger stripe katana he has; there's a pic of it in the latest Practical Sportsbikes.

Looks like you are right, Swirl. I hope all is well with you now. Many things in life are more important than fancy motorbikes.

Looks a great improvement. What I don't understand is the 'actions' of whoever had the rear brake set up previously. Why would anyone buy a Harris master cylinder and caliper for a small fortune and then neglect them so much?

It was for sale on Eblag a year or two ago, from Ireland, for some ridiculous price.

Try the AC Sanctuary website, and the gallery section. There are many pictures of modified twin shock bikes, including Katanas, most of which have had the top mounts for the shocks moved.

They send you some frame stickers after all! Those are the ones you can only get from Harris

I just looked at the prices of some of their stuff and my eyes are still watering

I just had to look up what the hell a Lavatory lz125 is. It looks a bit like the Beta 125 s, the fastest 125 available when these things were in my dreams between 1979 and 1981. ps If you are desperate, I probably have a couple of frame stickers at home you can have but I do not get back until mid-December.

Ok, that makes things clear then At least Harris will send you free stickers if you ask for them, and that includes the small ones that go on the frame

Buy one of those electric impact guns, 1/2 drive. They aren't that expensive and you will probably end up using it for all sorts. Mine was less than 40 quid and it says it does up to 450 nm. It makes short work of gearbox sprocket nuts, clutch nuts, ss swingarm wheel nuts and so on.

Call Harris - they will then tell you what pads go in the caliper. They can also tell you what new seals to get. In my experience, they never answer emails.

They're your carbs so keep them yellow it that is what you like Alternatively, paint the tops red, put a little Yoshimura sticker on each of the float bowls for one and four, and then try and convince people they are now worth double what the same item is worth without the Yoshimura branding

Blimey, those carbs are HUGE

Headlights are often useful for preventing car drivers from pulling out in front of you, and if you use the stock GSX wiring, preventing the reg/rec from going up the shoot. I'll get me coat......

Tank looks much better restored to original than before. I cannot see the point in modifying a tank to take LESS fuel unless there is a compelling underlying reason. I also agree on the can, which is why I asked. Carbon just doesn't look right on these older bikes,.

Did you get any other bits like the original Spondon rearsets, the AP calipers, and the original exhaust/can? I see it still has a period ap front master cylinder and the rare Spondon forks. I had some Dymag wheels redone at Dymag a while back. They look good but I got a few little sharp protrusions in the powder coat, which apparently is common when magnesium is powder coated. They did check them over and changed some dodgy helicoils. However, they failed to spot that the rear wheel was 2mm out of true This was 15 years ago, at the original factory. I have painted all of my magnesium wheels since then, and checked that they aren't buckled before faffing about with them. The frame with nickel plating looks a bit like a Moto Martin, not that MMs are bad. It is a shame someone has cut the tank but overall you must be very happy to have got it back in such good shape. My Spondon project bike when I got it by comparison was a mess.

Nickel is the base of most chrome finishes. Before stuff is re-chromed, all the old plate is indeed removed using, I think, hydrochloric acid. Really high quality chrome is triple plate: copper, then nickel, then a top layer of chrome. I do not know about nickel. It may have a base layer of copper though. Call a well respected platers and they will be able to help. You'll just need them to strip the old plate by going through their preparation procedure. Just as well paint job number 3 is more easily rectified I had some parts done here a few years back. They aren't exactly cheap but at least they know what they are doing with automotive parts. http://derbyplating.co.uk/the-process/ What is the plan for the rebuild? Racer, cafe racer or boy racer? Each is good

I remember the Burns steel framed bike at the Performance Bikes Trick Frames Frenzy in 1989 at Bruntingthorpe (30 year anniversary repeat event???). He was doing 150 mph wheelies on it. I think 2 weeks later it was totalled

When was the frame made? Does it predate the similar frames that had coaxial swingarms, the ones that had the swingarm pivots aligned with the gearbox output shaft for constant chain tension? It's great it has remained largely intact and hasn't been attacked by someone with an angle grinder Also what bits did it come with. The original race bike has some really good period bits like Spondon forks and the pre-historic anti-dive scaffolding