CockneyRick

I have done more complex build threads than that. Unfortunately they're on the old site

IIRC, the GSXR headers will flow to offside of sump, Bandit down the middle. Swapping sumps if needed will sort that. Look at my drag build thread & you can see the issues i had & how i got round it

No idea, @Rsvfletchcan tell you

If you have the Yoshi on, then better flowing headers & a re-jet (then dyno) will help it a lot. Otherwise, it will mostly run the same or worse than a stock can

Aftermarket will be lighter, most likely better flow dependent on quality. As for sump, it may be that you will have to get a strainer & sump off a different bike (see my drag bike build thread in projects) also, a few are hard to change filter with headers on, but seeing as you'll change it once in 5k miles, that's no biggy And sticking an end can on original headers & mid pipe will do nothing but look good.

To stop mine doing same with a R1 shock i got @Rsvfletchto mod mine

I got a spare set somewhere

I might be wrong, but i think the Slabby large tank tap is 44-45mm? Sure that's wot i had to source for mine (it's in gargae somewhere)

That's wot the smiley gave a hint to

Just keep insulting people, you'll soon be there

Is there anything you can't do? (Oh yeah, wheelie )

No, the metering of fuel is done by the float, the prime just keeps a constant flow to it. The Vac will stop all fuel movement when engine isn't turning over. Downside to prime is if a float sticks (which they do) then the freeflow will just keep going & dump all that fuel thru carbs into & past the cylinder/pistons into your oil With Vac, the fuel will freeflow if the float sticks, but as it's running, it will mostly burn it off before getting past the pistons, & will stop flow when engine is shut off.

That's why i said do it on prime PS no-one likes a smartarse

Could also be the diaphragm in tap, put it on free flow & see if it'll run off choke. Other than that, CDI for me too

Hope you got a bullworker in the loft

It's pretty strong, I can't bend/snap it!

Had a 1980 model that i used to tear up & down Blackrock Sands, back in the day when beaches were for bikes Fell off it 3 times in 10 days, before i realised it had a bent frame! Bought in bits for a £100, sold it complest(ish) for £100! Thought i'd got a result, but kicking myself now And shame is no pics anywhere of it, although i still remember the Reg: PTU 570V And it was......... RED

It has Kwak rearsets on with a long throw rod on it. So am just looking at the angle the link arm works at best. I have to adjust the rod for my personal taste after & loctite it in place as the rod is made of Nylon tube that i threaded. Link arm on this pic is not one i'm using, have fitted a gen slabby one now with dogleg to it.

Can anyone show me a pic of the gear linkage as i wanna figure the exact positioning of the link arm on the gearshaft. Ithangew

Looks like the lump i have will do fine

No but it sure makes it look Purty

As said, i have a GSX1100F (1127) already. Just thinking out loud & whether in the future to change it, before the spanners start to spin

No, cos the question was for a stock engine to start with!

Doubt my pockets will ever be that deep