TonyGee

yeah it will go in easy.

i had a similar problem with the 750 et i bought recently, what i do is with the engine running and front brake on, raise the rev's slightly and start to release the clutch till it starts to bite then pull it in again, do it a few times and see if it helps. worked on the ET and is spot on now, and other bikes ive had. don't over do it though.

might be worth bleeding the clutch fluid again just in case their is a bit of air in the system.

are you running a cable clutch or hydraulic ?

make sure they are petrol/ethanol proof

i did away with my vacuum tap and fitted another makes manual tap as i preferer them. mines a mk1 but not a %100 sure if the hole spacing is the same ? 34mm. the extension lever will fit after a little bit of filing.

can you offset both sprockets ? or use a none O ring chain. failing that grinding/cutting the brace !!!!!!! also converting the chain kit too 520 !!!

looking at the pic's i'd say the exhaust ports are at a steeper angle

any of you guys got a 750 et with 17" bandit wheel ? just wondering what size sprockets you are using, mines got 17t 45t

no, best to buy new to be on the safe side.

at least you've found the problem.

if you put the carbs in a vice to hold them and fix up a fuel supply you will have a better idea where the fuel is leaking from. a common problem is the float valves not sealing properly.

+1

it just goes to show the people who really over nurse a new engine do more bad than good. i bought a new xs 250 back in 1980 and took it easy for the first few miles till i had a run in with a mod on his scooter, ended up chasing him around town and riding it like i stole it, it had 60 miles on the clock. after that i didn't give a shit but the engine was strong (for a 250) and faster than any other similar bikes.

bandits can be funny when you change the air filter, try the OEM one and see how it runs.

i never said anything about honing the bores i just told him the name of the tool as he couldn't remember, and if the mileage is genuine then as i said it shouldn't need any work doing. yeah ideally the compression test should be done with a warm engine. i still think its a carb problem.

sounds like you have a wire connected in the wrong place ? but checking all the earth points is worth doing.

this might not go down to well but !!!! i bypass every clutch and side stand switch on every bike ive had, just more to go wrong. but thats MY personal choice.

if thats the genuine mileage then it shouldn't need new rings !!!!!! that tool is a honing tool putting a drop of oil down the bores will tell you if the rings are worn as the compression will come up. but sort out the leak on the other set of carbs first before you start stripping the engine down. i still think its carb related.

how many miles are on the engine ? if you end up taking the top end off do a leak test on the valves with the head upside down.

don't give up sam, at the end of the day its just a mechanical object and can be fixed

to make life easier for you do one cylinder at a time, all you have to do is make sure the high point of the cam lobe is facing away from the valve. then check/adjust the valve clearance.

number one cylinder is the one on the left as you sit on the bike, so the pic's are correct.

no problem, good luck. before you do any carb or ignition adjustments an engine must be in good health, if not you are pissing against the wind.

a new engine will show around 170psi service limit around 120psi. anything below 100psi isn't good. recheck the valve clearances