Fula28

It's is a little ruff, at idle odd spit back through plenum! I tryed float heights 2mm higher up as per usual, but she wouldn't run so set them all at 13.5 mk2 carbs are shite anyhow. So maybe a little lean on no,1 cylinder ,shall tweak airscrews and see, ta for now.

What's folks experience with temps at idle as have , 70'-157'164'154 from 1-4, will I get the higher ones down a bit with airscrews or float height, (experiences please) shes fooking hot at the headers just now. Only just run it up so base setting really. Mk2 blandit Turdbo.

No for battery use what ya got, starter an genny from b12 best.And b12 sump depends on exhaust system you have , B12 pick ups should come with motor. Dot head been there done that long while back cheap Hp. 130-147. Depends on head and tune. Last one we did is still going strong after 8 years of hammer.

Looks Promising jpich, use 750L carbs with b12 and gsxr 1000 k headers titanium cheap light . But only k1-2-3 as there connected down tubes after that, they can be heated an moved about to suit, Loads of fun an you will never look back. You can also use 750 loom cdi ect. But just don't bother reving it over 10.5k . As b12s won't make power same as 7fiddy.You can punt 750 motor out.

Hi Jpich , if it's 750L,M 1990 they made good numbers stock, but like rest of the guys say cheaper to bang a b12 motor in and fit your 38mm carbs from 750 m. Headers and nice set up would make 120bhp ish. You can tune of course the 750 motor but it's going to be £1000-£1250 to get that power and be a screamer not torquey like bigbore motors.

Their either j,k750 bst 36,s as you know or k11 slingy . Good carbs for sure.

Swampy suzuki spares ! On,t bay. Pepper sells em.£77 272839278545

So I'm mocking up the Oem, cooler which I can make fit with some rehoseing and jiggery pokery-! What are the current solutions folk are using on b12/t . I know lock stops are close too, as I've pushed Oem one right up outa the way of turbo! Hoses are an issue also but hey if it was easy we would be doing it!!!? Oh scratch that we are all doing it .....

Yes there the ones chief, we only got it by chance £780 full system , blagged for £165 on that site . Worked a treat and 0.5mm stainless light and well made too.

I've run high comp, with micron 4-2-1 40mm I.d headers, Then micron gsxr 1000 serpent headers made nearly 8bhp more and 12lbs torque. Then ran 4-1 titanium 38mm I.d system lost 5bhp. Akro 40mm I.d systems I'd love to try one for comparisons,

You can pocket std pistons upto 1mm been there done that, ran fine for 1000,s miles ,Even turbod was still ok.

There's a small o ring that holds float plastic cage/ inside carb body too, myn were so loose they fell off when turned over, If hard startin cold the slow running circuit is to blame usually, so floats, pilot jets air correctors, and mixture screw settings.

I had one of these, did same a CC states , they fall off ,orings shrink too, (ethanol) Tiny air correctors and pilots , double check those with strand of wire from wire brush. There ace bike when carbs are good! I loved it little revvy motor.

That head with plug thread crack is usual and repairable! Quite common£80-100 to fix easy. But if it's not boosted should be fine as is! Ive run them with cracks no issues .

Cheap option is Gsxr k7-9 wheels skinny light really available. Triumph wheels agreed are uber light and upto date I'd love a set on my new project tbh.

Hi George, I had simlar issues on my 1991 m frame . k7 arm , but only difference is my motor gsx14. Wheels first with string method old ,but gold and its Bob on. So I ran a shallower sproket spacer and shaved my front talon sproket (Hard as hell) and rear Cush drive was shaved + rear Inner face of sproket . This enabled correct alignment of chain rubber and sproket alignment. Lots and lots of measurements and lazer magnet.

And it's magnesium too....1052,

Same as these these guys, I've always used cheapest 10w/ 40 for 100-150 miles drain new filter ect ect. Worked a treat every time.

I would like to know about seal availability for simlar leaky damper in a draw.ta

Keep the faith Gary, Have a breather chill and regroup ! Plenty of time yet, as you have made a HUGE dent in a great bike build.

I'm with mean bean, I ran 34mm tin tops with 95mains and needles fully lean at top clip postion. 15.5 flost height. Good luck.

I ran stk bandit 12,top end 10:1 ,on my hybrid for 1000,s miles @ 7psi never an issue! 210bhp.1052 pistons do fail on the lands but I'd say that's due to fatigue /age normally. Busa slugs cheap fix for 1216.

Maxton ,do a really good reworking on stock forks, there good enough for classic TT. As cregnybaa will tell you on here. Emulators and linear springs are best, progressive ones, Same price?? And I'm with Clive on R1 shock there fantastic upgrade just needs heavyier Spring to suit, I used K tech but most others are good also, happy upgrading!

Bit of clean up and some heatproof on the down tubes be fine , for few years!