Swiss Toni

And don’t be tempted to leave the ‘bolts’ in the oil filter cover. Get the proper studs/domed nuts. Otherwise you’ll eventually wear the alloy threads in the cases out.

Good find! Loads of potential. Welcome to OSS.

Good man!

Should be a good 'un then, Rick!

If I remember correctly, the po of your engine built this a few years ago.

Usually. But any replacement engine that’s not the same dimensionally, is going to put the onus on the modifier! ‘How far forward/back? More to the left? Maybe the right?’

Ah, the ‘Modifiers’ bugbear raises its head once more! It’s the same old story. Keep the engine to the rear, to combat weight distribution, chain/swinger interface, and you then get header problems. Find a happy medium, Tony. Aim for the ‘sweet spot!’

Probably!

There are kits, for what they are, they’re expensive! Look at the drawings in the vault, get some plate, tubing, hacksaw and flap wheels, and make your own. There are also free programmes online for making the angled ‘tube to tube’ joints. Far more satisfying than lining someone else’s pockets!

Fatbloke????

I’ve got one on mine. Straight fit!

Try looking for Patricks thread about his Slabbie in The Vault. He fitted an 1100 Teapot engine, and describes how he got it running perfectly.

Nah! Nowt like it!

I’ve got an RF 900 bottom yoke that looks similar to that one, Alan. I’ll see if I can dig it out and post pics.

Every day’s a school day!

Is the circlip and washer still fitted on the gearchange shaft? If not, the quadrant could have slipped out of mesh and picked up again elsewhere! As CC says, whip the clutch out first and have a look behind it. Might save a lot of bother.

Rex’s Speed Shop. 01580 880768

Post a few pictures up! Once the circlip & washer’s out, if the piston doesn’t readily spring out, I just get a small punch/dolly, and tap the piston repeatedly back into the cylinder against spring pressure. Soon pops out! As Dezza says, half an our in the ‘fizzy bath’ can’t do any harm.

Wait for it!

Just use a piece of correct size o ring stock.

Hi Jess. Welcome to the club! B12 motor will fit no bother. Lower engine mounts won’t be used. Not a problem. Frame bracing not required. B12 rear end fits, you’ll just need to weld shock mounts on the arm, top hat spacers for the spindle. Front end, either a stem change, or use Slingshot lower yoke and stem. B12 top yoke to retain risers. Don’t fall into the RF900 lower yoke trap. Stem is too short! Chain alignment can be solved sometimes by reversing a dished sprocket, trimming the face of the carrier, or an offset engine sprocket. You’ll have more questions as you progress. Don’t be afraid to ask!

Now, I bet you’re glad you went and bought it, aren’t ya!

Mines a JDM. Frame no starts with GR71F- but, it’s an ‘85 F model.

Can’t fault you, man!

That’s great, Pedda! What a star!