Swiss Toni

Yes. I’ll sort them out, and send pics.

There shout E numbers on your carbs somewhere. Take a note of it, and get in touch with the guys who supplied your nozzles to confirm they’re the right ones.

Is it done yet then???

Sounds like you’ve been lucky! Might pay to do a compression test though. Just to settle your mind.

Me too! That’s the piece I told you was broken.

There was a Harris employee on here a few years ago. Can’t remember his name. Solved a few Harris related questions.

@baldrickThe amount of information this post has un-earthed is unreal! As they say, which in this case most certainly is correct, ‘Every day is indeed a school day!’ Long may it continue!

Email Harris direct. Should be able to provide answers.

Get it knurled. That’ll sort it.

Bit of heat wouldn’t hurt. You say you ‘squashed’ the first stem. I’m supposing you mean the threads? Leave the stem nut fully on with the next one, to protect the threads.

Hi DD. Welcome to the OSS!

Teapot and GSX750F engines are one and the same. Do you mean differences between Teapot and 750 Slingshot? Differences may be intake angle and valve size. Definitely higher lift/duration in the Slingshot cams!

You’re never going to be sure until you lift the head.

I renewed the ‘moulded in’ leads on an 1100 Teapot. Just carefully cut the moulded plastic away until you expose the terminal screw. Un-screw the old lead, and renew. Cover with silicone sealant, and before it ‘skins up’ wet your finger and shape it up. Good as new!

@Ted MYou might have something there! I’ve had the camchain appear too short, only to find the chain was located on the front and rear of the crank sprocket, with a lump of slack chain hanging below it. Put my hand through the chain, and turned the engine over by hand. Job jobbed!

And those drain tubes will probably collapse when you try to twist them. Beware of rust falling into motor. Shove some small bits of rag as far down the tube as you can get them. Try to guage where the rag is, and cut the tube above this line. When cut, shove the rag further in, preferably to the case opening. Then try to get the tube out.

Clymer should be ok.

@DGJAh! I didn’t read your post properly! I was thinking 1100! If you look at the picture below, it looks like the bottom of the tensioner blade is captive. Probably between the crankcase halves. If that’s the case … yes, you will have to split the cases. Anyone got a manual for it?

That’s an interesting problem!

Never seen that one before!

There is a bracket on the back of the tensioner blade, which is bolted (1 bolt) to the rear of the crankcase face. Move the guide forward for access. The guide just locates in a pocket in the lower crankcase. Go and introduce yourself in ‘General’. Tell us about your bike. We love pictures. Welcome to OSS.

Nice collection of bits. Should be a good ‘un!

Welcome.

By the sounds of it, the seat’s the problem then. Your idea might work. Give it a go.