Well, in the end I decided to not take the head off (yet) but try cleaning it first.
Instead, gave it another blast with brake cleaner first, trying to get the sticky oil out of there, so any dirt would be blown out easier with compressed air. Then another round with carb cleaner. (People say it works on carbon deposit as well.) Eventually, valves didn't sound crunchy anymore! Funny thing is: once I poured some new oil down the plug hole, some crunchiness came back here and there. I suspect the 'crunchy' sound might have been some oil being squeezed between the valve and seats. (?)
But whatever: after having adjusted the valve clearance, mounted the whole lump, carbs, exhaust, etc back together and gave it a shot. It fired up straight away at first try. Immediately running smooth on all four cylinders. Sound is comforting. (The previous engine use the have a light, mysterious, erratic, 'tinging' sound that used to come and go, which I never managed to trace, but which just might have been an unhappy big-end bearing ?)
Have ridden it a couple of dozen of km's by now, runs smooth, can idle below a 1000 rpm, so far so good. Haven't rev'd it above 5000k rpm yet, though. Gave the outside a good clean today, to keep an eye on any oil seeping out of old gaskets and O-rings in the coming time. No major oil weepings so far.