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Joseph

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Everything posted by Joseph

  1. Back to a few basic questions. Namely : Inlets : If using BST36, thats a 42 OD 36 ID spigot on the engine side. If i do make alloy inlets, i need a flange to weld the stubs in 3mm wall stubs. Alloy question : what thickness should the flanges be ? Should i anticipate warping of the metal during welding ? - - - - - - - Turbo plenum/airbox : I'm planning on 3mm alloy, looks like thats what was used on my turbo slabby I'm making plans for laser cut panels to be seam welded on all the edges Purely technical question : For this kind of metal, would this the way to position the panels in order to weld for optimal solidity ?
  2. I've also read about the good gains of a full exhaust on a 1400, but since this is due to be turbocharged that's not a path i need to take. Busa engine is still too expensive to buy, although indeed performance parts are extremely common. Also its one of those engines that has to be drysumped in my application, and, well...
  3. It's not going in a bike So room for stuff like big IC and OC can be found
  4. Yes, Holeshots offer kits that claim 200 RWHP on standard engine internals, 250 on standard engine internals + Kentcams (both @ 7 psi) and 350 with all that + turbo pistons and Carillo rods (@ 21 psi) They all use uprated injectors, custom injection Maps etc As far as I am concerned, i'm planning on standard engine, with either a Garrett GT2560R : Or a Garrett GT2860R : I am hoping for 200-250 HP The engine will have an air/air intercooler. Does any of this seem reasonable ?
  5. Joseph

    Watermeth

    Yep this definitely wouldn't go through google translate with much success
  6. Yeah i see what you mean but isn't that somewhat down to the size of the small 34 TBs ? A bandit engine would have been easier, but the 1400 do give quite healthy results though, and i could do with the extra torque of the big CC. Plus as standard it has got low CR, forged pistons, and a 6 speed Busa box. I don't want the hassle of FI, i mean, granted, i'm probably giving myself more hassle with a carb conversion but it gives me issues to solve that i'm more familiar with somehow. Also, all i got was the engine. No ECU no TBs, no sensors etc, so it will cut costs to source a set of carbs rather locating whats missing from the original set up. Parts for these are not cheap i have found
  7. OP mentioned big end and mains ? And i'm guessing the OSS discount won't cover the import duties
  8. Obviously Me being thick again. Looks like it'll have to be both, because the inlets have the rubber bead that slots into the carb groove, but for some reason not as deep as oil cooled inlets so the carbs probably won't be clamped on properly for boost Drawing board time >>>
  9. Hi Mentioned in the oil cooled section. I have a GSX1400 engine I would like to convert to carbs and then turbo This will be the outlet for my technical findings and questions about this engine. - Ignition : I figured that if possible, fitting an ignition plate and rotor from a Bandit would be a good way to get rid of the big wiring system and complex ECU of the 1400, so i could just run the B12 ECU and trigger. GSX 1400 rotor : B12 rotor : So far that looks doable without too much trouble. The plate is the same. The actual timing needs to be looked at, because B12/GSX don't line up, but am I right in thinking that Turbo systems like a bit of retard anyways ? So i need to address that anyway. - Carburetors : Off the bat i'm thinking BST36 The 36 are cheap and common, would they seem ok for the application ? That said, the BST38 would fit on the GSX inlets perfectly (i tested with a spare 40 body i have lying around) The problem i'll be facing however is the carb spacing : It is officially 72-110-72 on the 14, which is a major ballache, since the oil cooled ones are 78-90-78. Also, the 14 inlet rubbers are a weird offset shape : The spacing matches oilcooled inlets, but obviously the hole doesn't line up. So not possible to mix and match inlets to fit an oil cooled rack. Would it be feasible to make the inlets out of alloy, and use silicone hose sections to join the stubs to the carbs ?
  10. Xexpress.fr will be the cheapest i believe. It's a bit of a time consuming operation to order from them but they sell genuine suzuki parts and the pricing is very good Edit : just checked full crank and rod set : CMSNL : 240€ inc vat Xexpress : 187€ inc vat
  11. No worries. Yep all good, although having a hard time getting to continue my projects
  12. £52 inc. VAT at xexpress.fr For real OEM suzuki parts
  13. Lol. Where are they getting that sort of price from ? £60 inc VAT from cmsnl.com
  14. Oem isn't exactly expensive, and while you're there you might as well replace
  15. That would mean running pretty big main jets in the carbs
  16. These guys do it (or used to) : https://www.adsjante.fr/
  17. Joseph

    B6/b12

    Tell him he doesn't need a B12 wheel in the back. Keep it stock, use it till insurance for a real motorcycle becomes reasonable for him.
  18. Can't it run like that ? It's missing two opposing teeth but should be held constantly enough by the rest ?
  19. On a quarter ton bike with shoddy frame ancillaries, it's probably not worth it
  20. https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/topic/17829-efe-wiring-intrigue/#comment-208246
  21. Cool thanks for that info. Not entirely off topic i'd say To add to the turbo setup Q/A, do the Busa pistons being "lower" create any squish issues ?
  22. Interesting. Do you know the measures between oil cooled pin height and busa ?
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