Joseph

It's on youtube, step by step. Channel : Adikxx83

Acetone dipping takes powdercoat right off. You'll just need a big bath tub though for something that big. My powdercoat painter confirmed that something already PCed (namely, alloy motorcycle rims) could be blasted and recoated with no risk to the part itself, so, your steel frame will be fine if you want to change the colour

6 speed W box (94-95 with hollow gearbox shaft) fits right into the RF900 with no mods

@UpshotknotholeIf you could send the braced arm my way please I also have extra banana arm linkage

Well thats the thing. Instructions say you're supposed to count the number of magnets/sensor points. I found that putting 4 (as per the bandit rotor) didn't yield any realistic result. I put in the tyre circumference, and then taped my phone in GPS mode to the tank and played around with the number of sensor points till it matched the speedo reading. For my bike 1990 (tyre circumference in mm for a 120 70 17) and 11 sensor points give spot on GPS speed reading. I'm guessing any Koso dash must use the same software, so could be that setting to put in regardless of the model of dash used

Thats a hell of a price for something you can do without. Just need to cut off the sensor off the Koso thing, and either plug or solder the wires onto the bandit sensor I have found it much more reliable in response than using the magnets in the disc screw shoddy system

And there is always the Kawasaki sprocket nut trick if needing to avoid drilling or for depth issues :

I use a Koso DB01 with a bandit sprocket cover and it works no problem at all

Yes just a general question about these pipes since 36 and 34s have them Yes i did mean off as in not connected to an airbox. If i run 2 pipes from the barbs to above the engine would that be ok ?

Well if you're using adapters and/or a steel frame just buy what you want and weld mounts on accordingly. Whats holding you to W rear sets if you're not using a W frame ?

Not much info on line like a rear set chart for example, and i haven't come up with anything for the W either @jejep4does have a point though, the way the mounting points are on the W frame, you'll need to find rearsets with also a good enough triangulation of the mounting points to the footpeg, otherwise they'll sit too low (since most bikes rear sets are bolted on a close to vertical mount point line)

Which is still 59mm

Ok so let me rephrase I took the time to measure It measures 59mm

Looks like 59mm

Right, it's a BST34 for an 1127R engine with pods so if i can leave them out thats good

So i don't have to plug them or connect them to a closed circuit ?

Digging this up but it illustrates my question perfectly On the last photo, at the back, the left hose is the petcock vaccuum, right hose the fuel intake. What are the two hoses for on the front, stemming from carbs 2 and 3 ?

Indeed, but as usual, a lack of common sense Glass fibre is a fabric done with fibres made of glassg So glass fibre is the logical term because it is indeed made with hot stretched to the max strands of glass that create fibres that are then chopped up glass and carbon are used as adjectives, hence carbon fibre, because it describes what the fibres are made of. Thats also why you don't say fibre carbon. a fibre glass if sense is used, describes a glass and the product it is designed to contain (like beer glass, wine glass etc)

Doesn't look any thinner than Airtech or Ragged edge products, does indeed look precise in moulding details though How good is the headlight captive nut fixing ?

Fiber carbon ?

Glassfiber*

That's a 1990s GS500e fork And p.o. has done a pig of a job to that poor bike

I woluldn't bother messing around with that type of "mod" on that kind of "motorbike"

Well not that i'm an expert, but if you fit a more freeflowing air filter than stock without touching the jetting of the carbs it will probably not run anything other than like crap ?

Right so this turned up from the cutters The top edge will be rounded using a quarter cut off a 60mm tube