Joseph

You can definitely get all four stick coils off and on the bike without removing the tank, and the job will be done in under 2 minutes on a slingshot, haven't attempted it yet on a slabside.

200g weight gain, massive ballache to access the OE coils removed, and no more spaghetti under the tank

OK. Sounds interesting. I'll be giving it a go sometime this year hopefully, I need to sort out frame work so that the engine is in place first for clearances.

No they are rated at 0.75 ohm

Sounds nice. I need around 200-250 RealWheelHP for my project, and I do not want to mess with EFI because I am not smart enough to do so. Doable on carbs I guess ? I have ample room for IC on the build

And that's only a small list, there must be many more

Yamaha R1 2007-2008 Kawasaki ZX12R 2000-2004 Kawasaki ZX9R 1998-2003 Suzuki GSXR 600/750/1000 2001-2003 Suzuki Hayabusa 1999-2014

Le mieux c'est de faire soi meme J'ai acheté un kit mais j'ai du refaire deux paires de pattes qui n'allaient pas du tout C'est un cadre de 750 que tu as non ?

The offset should in all logic be stating from mounting face to center of the disc thickness, because that distance does not vary with disc wear. The 20/22.5 measure posted above is an indicator of both (actual offset as described above, and offset taking in account half the thickness of the disc.

20mm offset, 22.5mm to outer surface of disc i think ?

40 OD is the same OD as BST34 carbs on the 1100 GSXR and 1100 GSXF, so you might be able to use them (the lengths of rubber inlets seem to vary depending on the bike, making carb postioning sometimes incompatible when swapping stuff around). I bought a set of these new not that long ago but not sure they're still available for those bikes either. New is definitely best if you can source them

Take the underpan off, and use car jacks (carefully make sure it's well supported, and front brake zip tied ON) after disconnecting the dogbones to adjust slowly to the height you want then measure the difference in bone length

No probs. Took me quite some searching on eBag and Google cross referencing given dimensions. FYI the discs on that bike I built, with the factory looking GSX slots rather than classic drilling were made by Japanese brand Keito. Not much info on them and i got these new/second hand off eBag DE but styling is for this kind of mod

ZX12R also, and maybe a couple other Kawasakis

Yep there are, but with a smaller offset (which is good, because you can accommodate by spacing the calipers inwards) : ZZR1200 discs on my ex Katana slabside rims on SRAD fork

OD 170 mm ID 57.2 mm PCD 6x88 mm Based on what suppliers say online

£111 for an OEM full set here : xexpress.fr Still very steep. But useable second hand items should be available given enough time to search ? I wouldn't bother messing around with car hose/vacuum cleaner pipe/loo roll ducktape bodgery

Surely new oil gets contaminated by old anyway, i mean, its not possible to get it all out is it ? I removed my sump the other day after draining, then removed the strainer. Upon doing so an extra halfish pint treacled out no trouble, (vaccum broke and realesed from the pump or something ?) So that area is not by a simple sump plug oil drain and all that will be there to welcome the new oil in ? Doesn't the manual state something like over 0.5L of oil difference between full engine rebuild amount and simple service amount ? How much does said Factory cooler hold, in the case where it wouldn't get flushed out during a simple drainage ? Something like 200 ml ?

Nice looking exhaust you've got

Ah yeah well you'll have enough wire to fix yours indeed. For that kind of price it's worth the job

It's close enough but won't be plug and play, it'll need some reworking. You should be able to find a correct item ?