Joseph

Hey I am wondering if the following technical solution would be viable : Swapping a wheel onto a busa swingarm, i'm faced with the following issue : Wheel bearing ID : 30mm Busa spindle OD : 28mm I've always managed to get away with adaptative bearings that slot in the wheel and on the spindle, but unfortunately there is no bearing made that would bring the ID to 28. That leaves me with a radius of 1mm to handle. I have read on here people machining a long spacer that slips into the wheel and goes to the outer face of the bearings. I have found stainless steel tube that is 30mm x 1mm so that would give me the 28mm ID i need. But wouldn't that prove to be too flimsy or cause any fitment/removal issue ? Other than that, what options do i have ? Cheers

have a look at MS-008 on their website

yes, pics please interesting because i have also got a 7/11W in the works and had not thought about sump differences that said, the 1100 and all RF share the same sump, but the RF is single exhaust. that means the sump is compatible with a 4 into 1, unlike the 1100 OC sump. the 750 sump is probably offset because the OE header is 4 into 2, so they needed the clearance for the 2 downpipe tubes to live side by side under the engine that said, what you describe as far as mods to the 750 sump does sound possible

it's quite easy, i've done a mock up of a mk1 busa arm on a W frame pivot width is comparable. use the W roller bearing sleeves pushed into the busa sleeves (retaining the original larger Busa bearings) swap out and use the W crush tube spacer to go inbetween the pivot roller bearings. you will need a GSXR K1 knuckle you will sort out custom dogbones according to what you need in ride height and lastly you will need that CNC knuckle offset mount that @Danm54is known for W frame needs drilling to secure that CNC part due to the exhaust support points not being in the same place on the frame as the oil cooled bikes thats the full extent of the job

time to go down the rabbithole of google spec sheet comparisons and message boards

oh well thats nice of them

stock bottom and as @Duckndivesaid but you need to make a 3mm spacer to catch up the height, since unfortunately 30x47x15 doesn't exist

ah indeed in that case i'd agree with @Gixer1460

well the slave as its name implies only takes what it is given, so if the piston is pushing out too much, that would mean that its getting too much fluid/pressure ?

i got mine like that too. definitely brass. i levered it off delicately with a spoon and got it powdercoated

easiest will be a 750W header. they are available second hand. the rest, as in anything close that can be made to fit, will need work and will never be satisfactory

Main thing to measure is the resistance of the OE coils. One stick coil needs to show half of whatever reading you get from a stock one.

confirmed, i have one on the shelf i just measured we are talking about the oil sump aren't we ?

well tbh when changing oil i've never pre-measured the oil in a jug to match what the manual says, i've just added it to match the window level notch in the clutch cover. i know there's enough in a 5L tub to cover the oil change need, i just buy one and fill up. but for example, the manual says, in terms of capacities, for a 750R : engine overhaul : 5.0L oil change only : 3.6L oil and filter change : 3.8L thats 1.2L left inside, according to Suzuki-san ? granted that must include the cooler capacity, approx 200-300ml ? and then if you take the sump off, and then take the oil pump strainer off, i would say at least half a pint will dump out, i guess cause you're breaking some vacuum seal releasing this amount from the pump area ? @george 1100said that he runs the engine for 5-10 sec once emptied of oil when he does his oil changes to make sure he gets it mostly all out.

dunno, thats what the manuals say, give or take, depending on which engine is being serviced ?

When doing a oil change with filter, it still leaves at least 1 liter of old oil in the engine, so emptying the 200ml from the cooler won't change much eitherway

i just gave that link but if they've got it any supplier can get you one

https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gsx1100-1980-t-general-export-e01_model13757/cushion_0932901005/

if you remove the brake line that goes to the antidives, you will indeed need a single banjo screw rather than the double/tandem one. from this : to this : i am a big fan of leaving the antidives on the forks and slipping in a blanking plate, it's definitely part of the 80s looks here however it's electric anti dives not hydraulic

some inspirational info here : https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/topic/2102-the-rf900-from-hack-to-track/

i'll PM you

a mate maybe has a set, let me check with him