Joseph

Can't do dyno either. Nobody offers dyno carburetor set up in the country i live in

I saw that you wrote that but unfortunately i'm going to have to stick with the singles on this bike

Currently trying to set up my 1127R engine with BST34 I have KN single pods and the exact same exhaust as you, currently on 140 mains, 3 turns and middle notch needles, it's sluggish when you try to give it beans, so sounds like i need to up the game ?

Yes it goes through to the other side, the Ignition itself is not in an oil bath but there is a small passageway to the sump. It's a really smart and trouble free solution

https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/topic/20173-scavenge-pumpwhat-you-using/

That is a 10mm spigot, used with 10mm 1/4 turn valve

Got a few last bits from the laser cutter : Since the GSX1400 doesn't have cam oil ports on both sides of the head i had to come up with a solution :

The problem with finding an adaptable one is that due to the mounting position it needs to be super long with a super long stroke. Like it's been said Hyperpro carry one that meets the specs. Ohlins also has one in their catalog but you'd have to have it made to order, which is possible over this side, probably you can inquire at the official supplier where you are Otherwise another solution is to fit one accross the forks, hidden in the fairing, you need to weld/fabricate a mount on the fairing stay or something down those lines, but then you can use any short damper commonly found

The damper on the 1989 1100 can be rebuilt because it can be taken apart/unscrewed. All the others are crimped, so not straightforward for a home mechanic The slabside dampers were much better and can be adapted. But unless you're on a mission to restore to original specs like said you'd be better off buying new and aftermarket

It's laser cut by company local to me in France It's 2mm stainless and i don't know if i got lucky because often laser cut gives a notchy edge but the few i had them do of this part came out great

Ok. I'll see about it probably this weekend

Haha. Thanks I'm just wondering whether K3 and K4 is the same ? If so i'll have a look at his bike

My next door neighbour has a K3 1000, if thats any good he'll definitely let me fondle it's back end for you

Plenum base is looking nice too

Spigots are pressed into the base plates, now getting ready to send all the ally bits off to the TIG welder since welding is not my greatest talent, aluminium welding is not possible Also visible is the amount i can take out the cylinder head to open up its intake potential by matching the 36mm carbs

The rack got stretched Just a mock up build, i needed to see how long a tab i needed to weld onto the carb nº2 butterfly control, because as you can see it way out. Choke bracket also needs doing. Luckily enough the two mega long 6mm screws are long enough to thread into carb nº4, so thats a thing I don't need to address

Also pictured is the adjustable advance ignition plate i designed. Didn't invent the concept but it's come out super clean, adjustable +5 to -5

Out with the old : Spacer in : Rotor lined up :

A bit of an update. So, when i need lathe jobs, I have to spend money on a man because i don't have the tools or know how to machine parts, but he's delivered once again Alloy spigots for the intake pipes and plenum outlets : And the parts required for the caburettor conversion (spacers, mainly, because 2 and 3 carb need a big gap added), along with a nice little extended alloy T junction feed to fit with a brass spigot for the fuel feed : Finally, this little jobby to make up for the difference in height of the bandit rotor compared to the 14 rotor : So unless i've completely forgotten about some major aspect of how an engine works, this is all that is needed to convert a GSX 1400 to Bandit 1200 analog engine management ? I'll put it all together tomorrow, it's getting late now I'll probably arse something up if it start now

On my turbo 11 when i did the clean up rebuild, i sold the stock tap because i didn't need it, and fitted one of those spigot set ups i showed you the other day. 10mm spigot. Like on my normal bikes i used a piece of fine stainless mesh to act as a tank filter The electric pump couldn't draw enough through that, it was bottoming out, i figured that out because on test rides, i could only do an exact amount of meters before it stalled. That mesh is sized around the same gauge as the plastic tap mesh filter, znd works fine on my normal Suzuki, but the electric pump was having none of it Took out the mesh and put a car filter inline and that was settled

This is be where the pegs would be if you did the reverse operation.

425ml

Oh, and it looks like WC spacing is 72mm on the frame i've got ?

Available through @Danm54but last i heard a friend who inquired was told that they're out of stock at the moment ? Excellent stuff though