dupersunc

1127 and 1052 cranks have different size mains. Primary gears are different, starter motor and sprags are different too. I believe barrels and piston are interchangeable and everything above.

Slicks will be fine. Still worth looking at extra cooling even with a stock motor.

Go for it. There' a one make class for 600 bandits over here. The front runners run some impressive lap times. The cams and compression are a bit soft on the bandit. 750 cams and more cr should see you able to keep up with latest 600s. What ever you do to the motor, look at the cooling first. Oil boilers love an extra cooler or too, else the power tails off after a couple of laps.

Don't you have contacts with Nathan who built the Dunlop Xr69? That motor must be a similar spec to your's.

Just had my slingshot and a 675r parked next to each other, and tape measure in hand. Very doable, much closer than Late model GSXR stuff.

Don't think a bent frame is your issue. If you have the stock front sprocket off set, the builder has just lined the sprockets up on the back wheel and not bothered with centreing the wheel. Measure the distance from the centre line of a GSX1100 wheel to the sprocket, then do the same on the gsxr wheel. Chances are there will be a 16mm difference, or near as. 5.5 rear wheel in a GSX1100 always needs an off set front sprocket and chain tunnels in the frame to line everything up correctly.

Look up the racetech website. That will give the stock spring rates and advise on suitable rates for your application. Stock gsxr1000 k1 has 8.5 springs.9.5 would be a good start.5

Sounds like out of balance carbs. But try a leak down test as suggested to be sure.

Easy. But time consuming.

Plenty of people run cv carb and pods with big bore motors. You will end up with a flatspot around 4-5000 rpm but the motor should pull through it. I try to keep the rpm above 5500rpm. Sounds like you need to find a new dyno man.

I think the 1052 motors are 10mm bolts, the 1127 slingshots are defo 12mm as you say.

It's really just nuts and bolts, on the slabbies. The 750 cdi has a higher rev limit than the 1100, the ignition curves aren't much different. Use the 750 engine mounting hardware. The most awkward part is getting the fuel tap sorted. A 750 fuel tap will just fit, you may have to lift the back of the tank with some washers to get clearance. But the 750 tap doesn't flow enough for the 1100 in my experience, and the 1100 tap may not fit the 750 tank depending on what year bikes you have. Love the slingy, you must weigh about 4 stone looking at the subframe.

Hi Mole, You have the clutch basket I had. Duncan.

Yeah I had to do the sides of the fairing on mine. I run a yoshi style fairing which is very slim. Do you get a hopping or weaving from the front end when you really load it up.

Have to noticed any difference with the frame bracing? Trying to decided if I go down that route with my slabbie race bike.

Nice. Where do you race Mole?

Bollocks to mid range, just rev the fuckers. Never got the whole my 1200cc bike has no midrange thing.

Take engine out. Turn up side down, Remove, clutch, and sump. Remove bottom half of crank case, remove gearbox. Reassembly is reverse of disassembly. Notes. Rattle clutch hub nut off before removing engine from bike if possible. There, a couple of bolts hidden behind the clutch that hold the cases together. Getting the selector forks to line up on reassembly is abiy of a fiddle.

Do a couple of rounds of the Bemsee Tunderbike Extreme on the Slabbie 7/11. Build my 1216 motor into a 750k chassis and do a couple of preinjection 1300 races with NG roadracing.

Wasn't the Egli Vincent the first of Fritz Egli's Spine frames. The Stock Vincent frame was the oil tank too.

Not a lot, @£100, they're a bit scruffy. Just rebuilt them with new seals to get a bike through an mot. Need to build up a 600 front end (cobble together with an R1 Marvic and some CBR Nissins) to swap in. Won't be surplus for little while.

The 600 forks are 45mm, I may have a set of 43mm j/k forks spare soon. I had the same thought with the rubber mounts, I intend to try that next year. Oh @Rene EFEI run the clip ons about 30mm below the to yoke on my slabbies'. What do I win?

Oh @Hawky I've got 750j and L forks as well as 600 srad and 600k2 forks in the garage I'll measure up the extended lengths of them tonight if that's any help.

Sounds familiar. Charlies2 at Cadwell was where I first noticed it, tyre pressure helped a bit, but it reared it's head again big time at Jerez feels like the frame or forks flexing and releasing. I put it down to my Eblag suspension set-up. I've since spoken to a very quick ex F1 and Superbike racer who did a one off race in 2005 on a very trick 1216 motored 750rrk who described the same thing. Ah well i'm building up a 750k chassis to put my 1216 motor in to race next year. I'll be paying lots of attention to the engine mounts to get them shimmed as best I can. I've done the same on my slabbie too, to try and improve things.

Did you get the front tyre hoping when you really leaned on the front on entry in fast corners?