Arttu

No personal experience about non-welded cranks but based on what I have heard and read they can twist even at stock power. Suzuki started to weld cranks around 82' I think. So all 1135cc EFE engines have them and later 1074cc engines too. I have used a stock factory welded crank at 180-200hp on road for quite some time without issues.

Cam selection depends also on turbo and other parts of the system. If the turbo is relatively big and efficient and therefore exhaust pressure low compared to boost then the cam works pretty much like on a N/A engine. But if the exhaust pressure is higher then cams with shorter duration and especially shorter overlap work better. In practise stock cams are usually a good choice unless you really need something else and know what you are doing.

I would recommend using the ECU for fuel pump control.

Without buttons the arms will eat some grooves on the pressure plate. But that doesn't happen very quickly so it won't do any dramatic harm if you try it without the buttons. I have turned buttons that are threaded in to the plate. What you are planning to do with the bike? If you use the lock up only for preventing clutch slip then the simplest version works just fine.

Yes they do. Basically the same than on N/A engine. In practice they aren't that critical on boosted engine since the effect is relatively small compared to boost. But if you want to build an efficient engine they are definitely one of the things to keep in mind.

I just recently measured three stators against a single rotor. Resulting air gap varied between 2 - 3mm.

Not a scavence pump but I bought a plenum from him earlier this year. All went ok but communication was quite minimal. As far as I know he is an honest guy to deal with.

I have a Hayabusa left side switch at the moment. I think it's pretty good, has even lever for the chocke / fast idle. On right side I have some H*nda part, can't recall model any more. I would just first list all the needed functions / buttons and then go through Eblag or local bike breaker to find something that match.

I assume we are talking about lithium batteries that are intended for bike use? Meaning LiFePO4 chemistry not LiPo which is used on RC batteries, phones, laptops etc. These are compatible with lead battery charging voltages, more or less. So normal regulator is fine, assuming it works properly. Lithium batteries are less tolerant to over voltage so any overcharging will kill them pretty quickly. Also their nominal voltage is slightly higher so they need more voltage to get charged. If the charging system works properly this isn't any issue. But if the charging voltage is marginal, less than 13V, it's possible that a lead battery still gets somewhat charged and lithium one doesn't. So as short answer, you don't need any special regulator. But make sure that the charging system works within the specs. And upgrading to some good quality modern regulator might be a good idea any way.

I think the ProBoost kits (link above) are from lowest end of the price range. And provide good value for your money. Sure you can build a similar setup with less money, if you source the parts smartly, know what you are doing, can do everything by yourself AND don't count any value for your work.

Ah, ok. Sorry, no idea about them but I'm pretty sure they are suitable for a B600 engine. You can measure the flow quite easily by yourself. And that's highly recommended any ways when using old injectors in unknown condition.

I haven't personally tested 36-1 on oil cooled Suzukis. But just looking the resulting teeth / gap size I think it's getting a bit too tight for the stock pick-up sensor. I know that some people are using it successfully but also there are some who haven't got it working properly. 24-2 has been pretty trouble free for me. Injectors for N/A 650cc engine? Anything between 200-300cc should be fine (roughly 130-200hp) so basically anything from >600cc EFI bike will work.

It's also good to keep in mind that there can be huge variation in traction on normal road surface. A couple of different examples from the same day, same tire, same setup: Random clean looking smooth piece of road, no burnout - Spins tire right away when trying any harder launch, won't lift the front in any case. Air field, cleaned normal asphalt. No glue but some rubber from other cars and bikes. Short burnout. - No any traction problems, just wheelies when trying to launch too hard.

I think 0.5 bar should get you around there if the setup is done correctly. And that should be still relatively safe with stock compression and pistons if tuned right. The B12 engine is one of those funny examples that really like boost and can even exceed that normal rule of thumb about 100% power increase by 1 bar boost. Also usually a turbo engine will feel way more powerful than a tuned N/A engine with the same peak power. I could tell a couple funny real life examples about this

Yes you can if you keep the boost low enough. I think the limit would be around 0.5-0.7 bar on pump gasoline if tuned properly. Upside would be that it probably makes clearly more power at that boost compared to lower compression build. Some time ago I partially built and tuned a turbo B12 that had completely stock unopened engine. It cranked out quite healthy 260hp at 0.9 bar boost. But this was on E85 fuel. As said, on normal pump gasoline you probably want to keep the boost a bit lower.

There are oil pressure sensors, sure. I don't know what's the thread there so can't say how easy it would be find a sensor that fits. Typical threads on sensors are 1/8" NPT and M10x1. But probably a bigger problem is length of the sensor, most of them are too tall to fit inside the cover. So it's probably better to leave the switch there and install a sensor somewhere else on the oil circuit.

Yes, that could work. But the problem is that you still need to ride the clutch. And then it might be tricky to adjust switching point of the limiter input switch. If it is too early the rpms will shoot up while you are still feeding in the clutch. Too late and it will keep bouncing on the limiter when you should already have full power. But like said, probably worth of trying.

Haven't ever actually checked it but I'm 95% sure it's just a switch. So it will only tell if the pressure is over the switching threshold or not.

I think a launch limiter works best with slider style clutch where you can just throw the lever. But it could help with normal hand clutch too. If you can build some boost on limiter you can probably launch at lower rpm and then you don't need to feed in the clutch that long. I think I will try that next time. Whenever that happens... I have boost by gear control and that helps a lot. Only problem is that the wastegate doesn't allow low enough boost to get on full throttle on 1st and 2nd.

I have personally tried my bike on quarter mile only few times. But here is one "amateur rider on street bike" reference Air cooled turbo GSX, on full road trim so pretty high, slightly under 300hp max with the setup used on the track. Non-prepped air field track. The main problem was wheelying on 1st and 2nd gears so I was able to get on full throttle only at end of 2nd gear and onwards. That shows up on 60ft and 1/8 (200m) times. You really mean your 60ft times were between 3.7-4.0s? Considering that the 1/8 times are pretty good. I think you need to get the 60ft under 2s before you can make much conclusions about further incrementals. Edit: Ah, re-read your post and you probably meant 0-60 mph time, not 60ft? Then it makes more sense

No, there is no pressure relief valve on the roller bearing GS/GSX engines. And don't worry, you won't need it with 750 pump gears. Even with them the oil pressure will be only around 0.5 bar (7 psi) when the oil is hot. With cold oil it may get up to 2 bar or so but even that isn't anything to worry about.

Not sure if it should be called as a wear item but yes, the splines on the hub can wear loose over time. There are two versions of the hub. Earlier is full aluminium and more prone to spline wear. Later one has steel insert in the center so it doesn't wear that easily. But sometimes the insert can get loose which naturally will cause quite significant rattle.

The Kat looks interesting! The coil conversion principles should be pretty much the same for all 4 cylinder Jap bikes that are originally equipped with double coils. Exact details of some weird H or K or whatever bikes are out of scope of this forum

I'm pretty sure that all the used baskets look more or less like that. Unless it's almost unused... I would just blend the worst spots with a dremel or something similar. It shouldn't rattle with new springs.

I haven't ever tested this by myself but I recall estimations around 10mm from other people. So you should have at least that much clearance when the forks are fully compressed.