Gixer1460

One issue I can see is belt tooth to tooth contact over the tensioner. The untensioned side will flap about - its scary how much they do - didn't occur with the original Sims & Rohm due to the poly Vee belt used. Obviously a bit of wear and increased tension makes the situation worse - certainly a shorter belt and getting the tensioner at least 3x the difference?

One issue I can see is belt tooth to tooth contact over the tensioner. The untensioned side will flap about - its scary how much they do - didn't occur with the original Sims & Rohm due to the poly Vee belt used. Obviously a bit of wear and increased tension makes the situation worse - certainly a shorter belt and getting the tensioner at least 3x the difference?

Doesn't need to be special - I got mine for a modified car's auxiliaries drive from Medway Belts - http://www.dunlopbtl.com/downloads/Dunlop BTL - Timing Belts.pdf - last ones I bought were £6 or 7 each.

Yeah - it was looking a bit 'we are the Mods, we are the Mods' scooter like - needs more lights though! LOL!

Probably could - likely to cost more than buying another replacement! I did this with some gauge plastics - easier to buy whole cluster just for the clear plastic!

Apologies for the confusion / misdiagnosis!

Thank you for the clarification!

Alphasports site (good resource for part #'s although US) don't list a GS 400 but they do list a GN 400 through those years. The US often had similar models but renamed ie. the GS1150 for them was our GSX 1100 EFE! It could be worth a look? https://alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm

What bike, what ecu / cdi fitted? If std Suzuki, there is normally a dedicated tach output which is usually black/red or similar. Thinking outside the box - black/yellow is coil signal colour and tacho may actually be reading half speed so the fluttering could be the red line limiter - clutching at straws ! ! !

The GS ones could have the small nose taper like the early GSX - if so, then no swopsie. Could be other differences but never compared side by side.

Is that all ? - you were lucky! (in best Monty Python Yorkshireman accent)

Ah Ha - that's why I posted a diagram with them - i'm smart like that LOL!

If you like the 'comfy' riding position of a Blandit be prepared for potential back and wrist pain as it's a lot more head down, arse up - also a lot faster LOL!

Here's a loom diagram with twin lights and relays included.

There is a search function - please use it or at least read through the whole of the Forced Induction part of the site - pretty much every question asked has been answered MULTIPLE times! Principles are the same whatever motor it is getting bolted to - just details change!

The turbo is usually / always fed via engine oil pump - GSXR's have plenty of oil pressure to spare. Waste oil from the turbo is sucked out either by an electric scavenge pump as above or via a mechanical pump such as the Emtes type (what I use). The two have pro's and con's - the former can drain the turbo after engine is shut off but is an electrical load (which can be a bit much on some electrical systems - unlikely but possible) and a failed pump will result in LOADS of blue smoke. The emtes type are always on/pumping when engine is running but aren't a bolt on solution requiring some engineering / welding to fit and ideally should be combined with a sump below the turbo to capture any drainback.

Well they do have a Space programme and do build the hardware themselves unlike us who borrow someone else's rockets LOL!

How about using GSXR sleeves in your 1100 block - they are 78mm std and so will be the biggest in that block = 1260cc and more likely to be plentiful in Aus. ? - looks like you'll be boring something but aluminium is easier than steel LOL!

Oh for god's sake ! If the engine / carbs are healthy, it will run and idle / rev out without any cable connected - IGNORE the ancillaries - focus on the main things! Now you present another (fairly critical) issue fuel tap / fuel supply! I assume these carbs have a choke - are you using it? Again - get a manual ! ! ! ! ! ! !

Doh ! And I had a 1000 ! Probably overlooked as mine was 1327 LOL!

Or 50, 250, 400, 650 or 1100? LOL! I blame the Japanese!

A good switch should show continuity between the tit on the top and the brass plate inside the case when removed from engine whether plunger is pushed or not. They are not sophisticated devices - no oil flow, brass disc touches engine case completes ground circuit, light illuminates - with oil flow pushing disc off cases, circuit broken, light goes out! They can get mucky so a soak in cleaner may help but there is no much else to go wrong!

Beg to differ In the UK a shed is a shed and a garage is a garage - they are not interchangeable. For most people - you wouldn't park a car in a shed as they are less than 100 sq ft! and will just about take a bike with some space around it.

Be careful using a Prostock crank as they are usually / used to be fitted with a 750 gear to alter the clutch / primary gear ratio - good for racing out of the hole but not so much for 'normal' use. I thought GS1150 crank stroke dim was 66 odd mm as stock so those aren't stroked ? and also VERY cheap so are possibly s/hand and a s/hand PS crank will have turned 13-14k rpm and are swopped out for good reason. Could still have good life turning lower rpm's but bearings may be suspect long term!

All i'll say is stop fucking around with ancillaries and address the problem - dirty carbs ! ! !