Russ750ET

Absolutely! Put my name down Paul

I'll be there again. Enjoyed it this year

Your clip position will impact the 1/4-3/4. If you are currently on #3 and its lean, try going to #4 Charts like this help to visualise it a bit better

You will likely need richer mains, but maybe not as much as 135. I wouldn't like to say exactly, maybe 120/125? Try both 112.5 and 135 (if you have them already), and see how the bike reacts. Jetting without a dyno is a lot of trial and error. Do lots of reading up on lean/rich conditions at different throttle openings etc. I found it actually helps to get it wrong, both lean and rich, so that you can identify and understand lean/rich conditions.

Drop the bowls, remove the floats and float needle etc and thoroughly clean. These mechanisms are sensitive to dirt. If you haven't already, fit an inline fuel filter between the tank and carb. Unless you have stripped/treated your tank it is probably full of crud (mine was). I believe the o-ring under the gasket it necessary, I have them fitted to each of my carbs. Bench test the carbs with a dummy tank (worth buying if you dont have one). Saves all the hassle of fitting just to see them leak again. Gixer1460 - It looks as though he is copying my jetting specs. Which work okay 'ish' on my 750 which is heavily ported, different cams, pod filters and a 4-1 exhaust with a very short 60mm race can. It will probably be too rich for Anders but it will be a learning experience in the dark art of jetting

Yeah, so I'm still using the jetting stated above. 135 Main, 42.5 Pilot, Fuel Screw 2 turns out and Standard needles on the richest 5th clip. If you find my build thread, I ended up making some aluminium shroud tube that I pressed over the POD filters. This has helped to restrict and potentially direct the flow a little better. It's not perfect but it's plenty ride able. Ideally it needs a richer needle and Dyno time. But I think I'd go down the new carb route rather than putting anymore time and money into the originals

Some stunning machinery. The matt black GS was the star of the show for me, thing just looks mean.

I'm making the trip, combining it with a visit to see an old mate that lives in Leeds city center. See you there!

Yeah 32mm on 750ET's, they look identical to the ones on my GSX750

Tesa tape is great for finishing the looms. Not sticky and gooey like standard electrical tape. But it sticks to itself really well. If you overlap it a bit it gives the loom a lot of support, which is handy in the more venerable areas.

It looks like you can get new gears for your bike. They are showing as available on CMSNL. I was going to suggest pinching the parts numbers and going over onto WeBike.com. But for the first time I've seen, CMSNL actually seems to be cheaper (but still really expensive).

Good fun as always! Fun to chat a bit of bollocks and gain plenty of insight/knowledge as well. Thanks for hosting Larry

Unlikely I'd stay over but will absolutely be there in the day. Also it's Prescott Hillclimb Bike Fest on Sunday 22nd. Bit of a ride but not a bad way to spend a (hopefully) sunny afternoon.

As above I'd check the ignition barrel first. Happened to me on my 1980 GSX1100. The old solder has likely broken away. A clean up and re solder and it was sorted. If it isn't the ignition barrel then a quick wiggle test of the loom with the ignition on can help identify the area of the issue. My loom was so bad that I pulled the entire thing of and re did every single plug and connection. Was a bit daunting as a newbie but was easy with the right tools. Bikes been solid ever since.