Isleoman

Are front running lights legal in the UK? Personally I think they provide better visibility to approaching vehicles. If there are three wires then there should be two filaments in the bulbs, one for running lights and one for turns.

Thanks for confirming that. I knew it was only one weld you could view, but that's all it takes to remove any doubt. I'm sure a very high percentage of non welded 1982 cranks never had an issue and never knew. There was a GSR member that was maintaining a spreadsheet on engine serial #s and crank condition , from member supplied info, to try and pin point the change over, but I never saw a final answer.

I'd say the opposite. I have a U.S. 82 GS1100ez silver motor with 24 bolt head and it had a twisted crank. 151064 is the number stamped on my motor. I've seen wive's tales about when the transition was made based on that number but have never seen an actual silver motor with a welded crank, that wasn't warrantied. I bought mine new in 1984 as a left over. I knew about the cranks and had also heard about the serial number transition before I bought it. I asked very specific questions of the Dealer concerning the crank. He went into his office and came back with a book and then looked at my serial number and said "Yep, your's has a welded crank." At the time the dealer had two 83 black engine bikes and three 82s. The 83 were $400 more. I said great I want the silver motor but can you please write this information on the Bill of Sale and initial it, which he did. One month later the crank twisted. We had a very uncomfortable meeting at that point where he not only guaranteed to make it right with a new welded crank, but also provided new Yosh cams and Pipe as compensation. Lost a whole summer waiting for the engine to be rebuilt at the 10K mile mark. I put 10K on in a month doing a cross country trip with wife, thankfully the crank twisted as we pulled back into my driveway not in the middle of the country. I believe you can see the welds on the crank when the clutch cover is removed, but I'll let someone else confirm that statement.

Screw it back in, then release the cable at the clutch lever first. On some cables there is also a cable length adjuster somewhere near the middle. If your cable has one then gain some slack there as well. At the clutch lever I sometimes have to loosen the cable at the clutch perch as far as possible and then pull the clutch lever in , then as I release it I can get enough play in the cable by pulling the cable back out of the adjuster. Your other option is to remove the safety clip on the clevis in bottom right of picture and push the pin out of the clevis.

Wouldn't any measurement off the front sprocket also need to know what gear the bike is in? That's the way it works on my Yamaha.

On a GS or GSX1100 what's the advantage over using the oil cooler ports below the oil filter cover? Are the EFE oil filter covers that re-direct the flow no longer available?

If the noise from the "nice clean example" in your link is normal, I sure couldn't live with it. The champaign colored one in your link sounds normal.

For years Race Tech had the wrong part no. listed for GS1100 applications. It was discussed a lot on GSR and with the company and they never fixed it. Make sure you speak to a rep before placing order. Current numbers might be right but make sure before you buy.

I'll agree that there are limited choices for radials in 18" dia. but for those looking Bridgestone T32 are very good sport /touring tires and available in 140 and 160 width. https://www.denniskirk.com/bridgestone/battlax-t32-sport-touring-tire.pfp546364.prdf I'd try to convert to 17"

I have one hundred thousand miles on my Suzuki GS and 300 hundred thousand miles on my Yamaha using Mobil One fully synthetic "Car" oil. I did use Shell Rotella Diesel oil for a time with the Yamaha but went back to Mobil One. No clutch issues. With a big Earls cooler my temp gauge on the GS11 reads 210F most of the time (however those gauges aren't very accurate).

Just for clarification in the US 1982 GS1100e is and EZ. In 1983 the designation was ED. ED had welded crank and black motor. 82 did not have welded cranks and had silver motors. Some will claim some 82s did have welded cranks at end of production but I've never seen or read of one. If you planning on flogging it get an 83.

On my modern bike it's usually the hand grip on the throttle tube is rubbing against the plastic housing. Have to pull the grip outward till there is 1/16" clearance. Disconnect the throttle cables at the carbs and see if it idles smooth.

+ 1 on DID chains. The VX series is all you need. I also run 530 with a 3/8 offset but I'm running 170 rear tire. The 520 chains are almost the same width as 530.

In the States they sell for between $150 and $200 for the forks and triple tree. Just like the UK there isn't much demand for RSU forks.

Based on your description that it occurs when off or when running. My guess (and that's all it is).... is the carb needle valve o-ring or the float is stuck. The float moves the needle valve up and down and if the tip of the needle is gummed up or misshapen the fuel won't be cut off when enough has entered the bowl. You can try lightly rapping on the side of the bowl of the offending carb. It could un-stick it. There may also be something wrong with your tap. If you leave it in the run position it shouldn't flow fuel when off. You didn't say how long it flows fuel when engine off