Gixer1460

Whilst running water / methanol can be adventageous, I'd be wary about its use 'carte blanche'. Its historic use was to suppress detonation through over boost or excessive CR - if you aren't ticking those boxes, save it for later IMO! A gasket shouldn't 'shimmy around' - the dowels should restrain it in position but loose head nuts is not good - never had or seen nuts loosen when correctly torqued / over torqued!

So you changed multiple sets of coils and no doubt plugs also but problem was cured by using stick coils . . . . . . which don't have . . . . . Plug wires ! Probably, there be yer problem? Its always the bit that can't be faulty, but usually is.

There's rich and rich to the point of flooding! A rich mixture that is burning still make heat. I don't know what ignition you have - if its too advanced it won't help the rich situation, too retarded will tend to be burning in the pipe so would show much higher temps (this helps turbo's spool btw). I suspect either something is blocked causing rich condition or someone has been jet fiddling and gone upsize which seems it doesn't need. Are carbs 'absolutely' clear and clean - we say over and over - an Ultrasonic clean is std. for these old carbs! Check jet sizes against workshop manual quoted sizes, if only to cross off the list - and that they are the same in every carb!

As the pipe lengths dictate where - you have it correct.

#2 is a bit out of balance and 135F is barely 60 C - at idle you should be seeing maybe around 160 - 200 C ? Low running is exclusively pilot jet!

A bit, maybe 5-10psi? I've never been fussed about cold/warm/hot, it's comparative numbers that's important!

And to be honest, whilst the output numbers are ballpark, you ain't gonna get them at those rpms! Maybe add 2k to each to be nearer the mark?

Think so! I thought the whole reason for using Bus pistons on stock 1100 rods was that they dropped down the hole to drop comp for forced induction use ! ! ! They got nothing going for them otherwise, apart from being an OEM forging LOL!

Yeah sort of counter - intuitive ! A dome volume should be a minus number ie. subtracted from chamber volume, whereas a dish is a Plus number as its added to chamber volume. A difference of 16cc makes one hell of a difference ! And agree with CH - gasket number is deffo wrong - 3 hundredths of a mill is paper thickness!

You'll only tell with a dry build - which would have been better done before decking the block. CC the chambers for definitive answer. You may also need to check valve to piston clearances before building up for final time.

They don't look like std steel needles - i'm leaning more towards DJ needles? What do the MJ's look like as if you've got the needles, you'll likely use jets as well? Only seen one set of Blandit DJ needles and seem to remember them having little taper with blunt tip but could be wrong!

Using the old Sherlock motto " when you have exhausted the plausible and practical solutions, whatever is left however implausible or impractical will likely render the solution" So, do you have a rodent issue / problem in Ohio ? The little critters seem to love chomping on standing wiring looms and other automotive parts!

For clarity - measurements at cam or lifter? I don't know what the rocker ratio is on these but makes a mess of the calc if its wrong. Good info nonetheless

If a gear is 'rattling', its loose on its mounts / fixings - thus the tooth mesh isn't constant and will move back & forth, under and off load. When correctly meshed with minimal backlash any noise is imperceptible! I've had both straight cut and helical cut primaries in bikes, neither of which i'd say was loud / noisy! Now a straight cut gear set in something like a classic Mini Cooper gearbox - that is loud, noisy and whines 'like a bastard' basically due to the extra lash required for racing gear changes!

Er ! Primary shouldn't rattle - ever! They do make a bit of noise but hardly perceptable at idle. And a carb slide rattle you'd hear at idle - believe me, you would!

You could damage pump or bypass valves if totally blocked off - not designed to bypass everything! As others said - make up link pipe.

Marvel Mystery Oil - seems to cure / fix a multitude of problems - https://marvelmysteryoil.com/pages/our-story

Being pedantic ^^^ this was never established as some people call CV's, flatslides as the slides are 'flat' as opposed to roundslides. But agree with RS40's being too much for good road manners - they are perfectly suitable for tuning when compared to the CV versions.

As well as 40's, as that is what an 'M' in the UK came with, the OP said it needs rubbers to suit! Read before contradicting! And a Haynes manual has all the jetting combinations.

Seems OP doesn't want to engage - hasn't been back since !

Maybe a carb backfire cause the meltage and dent looks like its been dropped and painted over? Panel fits a bit iffy but the re-registration difficulties do stack up!

I did not know that!

They are frowned upon in UK as in bad weather, poor visibility the two lights could be mistaken for two bikes a distance away - not one, who is about to slam into them when they pull out! We're not in merica, and they ain't cool, so ditch them.

Suzuki main restrictions were in carb tops and jetting but exhaust and ignition restrictions not unknown!

Some were, some weren't! French were and if sold into Germany it could be but I think 'native' German bikes were 'full fat'.