Gixer1460

Holy Thread resurrection Batman LOL! Run them to a nice fab'd catch can or a tin can if you are tight or dumpy K&N vent filters if you don't mind the mess !

Difficult to give definitive answer as turbo response will influence ie. could be real slow starter then bam - 20psi or nice a linear climb to wherever the WG is set to. First one is dead tricky due to rate of change - ecu would maybe have to drop 20 degree's in less than a few engine revolutions. A dyno is the best place for evaluation - if in doubt, take more out than you think as its easier to put back into a running engine as opposed to one with holes in the pistons LOL!

As you are running moderately high CR i'd start with 1 Deg. per psi! You won't be able to run a lot of boost anyway so once you find it's ok you can wind it back slowly. High CR will get detonation earlier unless you have significant intercooling or other anti-det methods available!

I doubt you'll fine a video specific to your bike but a 'generic one', for a 4 cylinder, centre run STANDARD chain will be enough. A Hyvo chain as fitted to Blandits is slightly different (more fiddly) so best not look at that! It's a relatively simple procedure - I had to do one whilst on a dyno trying to set up some carbs, it took about an hour and a half and a few pairs of hands - two pairs is minimum as peening over the rivet link is a pain on your own!

Even 10 years! They don't become stiffer with age - quite the reverse. Dirt build up, incorrect assembly or something broken would be usual faults.

So - you've re-assembled it wrong! If clean and assembled correctly, they don't become stiffer!

If you can solder electronic components well / reliably then the DIY route of building a Megasquirt or Speeduino is a cheaper option (£225 - 400 - wow Mega's have gone up in price!!!) Then you'll need a fuel pump, throttle bodies (GSXR600's are good and quite cheap) various sensors and a crank trigger wheel. That will be sufficient to get a running and tuneable bike. A good addition would be a Wideband Lambda sensor and controller - helps tuning and running of engine + some controllers log parameters . . . . . . not a necessity but VERY useful. That lot should be sub £1000, maybe £800 . . . . .go on, risk it for a biscuit!

Has it got new fuel? The latest E10 is even more prone to water contamination so more carb problems crop up - particularly idle and low end running.

This apparently is a 1989 RMX250 - there are differences ! Maybe yours has aftermarket plastics ? VIN decoding to obtain a year is tricky for non OEM people!

Bandit with a 'hydraulic tensioner' ? ? ? I thought they ALL used spring tensioners! Just looked at APE instructions - it says 'if fitted with hydraulic tensioner' ie. in general terms - a blandit isn't!

It would be advisable to include it as it limits the amount of 'crush' put on to the bearings - without it they can be over tightened and wear prematurely! Strictly speaking taper rollers are 'overkill' for steering head bearings - the old 'cup & ball' races are fine for the job just a tad fiddly come maintenance time!

You are correct - its called progress LOL!

And probably a bit rate these days!

Cos it works better than the old shit that comes off !

Oh dear - that'll get the Dyna haters out LOL!

Before delving deep into the loom - just try a direct wire from SG to the CDI block, that will either reinforce or dispel that area for diagnosis!

Based on its use, and potential for more routine removal i'd advise a smear of grease one side or the other on assembly - it aids removal without tearing!

Definitely worn out!

Not wishing to state the obvious, but the wheel axle isn't currently anywhere near the forks axle clamps - when repositioned its gonna look like a chopper LOL!

I wasn't thinking about gap to get it in - that should be sufficient, it was locking it to the fork to prevent it spinning, as original forks have a stop lug cast in for this purpose!

No reason not to do it, if that's what floats yer boat! Biggest hurdles you'll have is matching all the braking components (whichever type you choose - GSX or GSXR) to either forks or wheel and mudguard mounting. Oh and you probably won't have space / fixing for the speedo drive either!

I'm confused? What's the difference except your recommendation is twice as much work? If you skim first you reduce the liner flange recess depth, so liners will protrude - unless you machine the recess as well then you might have to machine the cases to accommodate the 'dropped' liners. Most liner flanges can take a 10 - 20 thou facing cut without drama so why not install and face cut in one operation? Or is this all related to block bottom? Will 1075 cases accept bigger OD 1135 liners without boring?

See Clive's post above A lock-up adds height over the clutch so the cover needs a spacer which then requires an extended rack piece to maintain clutch operation.

I get what the OP wants, it was the errant reference to the GSX engine I found weird! Just because it has a cable clutch operation doesn't mean 'its' extended rack would fit or work. If it was me, i'd use (and I did x2) a hydraulic clutch (for which lock-ups are available) - its not as if you have to be subtle when a turbo is involved! Making a one off, hardened and ground extended rack for a hybrid 750/1100/cable/lock-up will likely cost what the whole clutch is costing - just sayin'

Seriously? You weren't aware of probably the most used motor in drag racing used a lock up! This is the engine it was first used on. If you need an extended rack for a 750 it's likely to be DIY!