Gixer1460

Improvements in efficiencies will skew the results but 'generally, as a rule of thumb' - 1 bhp needs 'x' volume of fuel in a linear fashion.

OEM's spend loads of design hrs and £££ to get that right! A boss is usually cast in for the sensors. Bosch is a popular make and they use either M8 or M10 studs into a substantial bit of metal.

Knock sensors need to be secured to the block or head, solidly to get the hi frequency vibrations so I think the rubber inlets will isolate the carb rattles. Bike engines are pretty mechanically noisy so could give false signals?

Watch out - you'll be labeled as adverserial LOL !

Maybe but 140 odd hp against std 100hp is a 40% increase in fuel so . . . . .!

Personally, i'd prefer this position with other electricals behind and facing it! Centralised weight and closer / neater wire runs?

And two more things - exhaust / plug colour is a very unreliable tell tail these days with ethanol doctored fuel, and secondly, without putting the engine under load ie. on the road, you won't have a Scooby Doo what the engine wants to run right! In neutral and in the garage will tell you nothing except it runs!

Some people say the taps 'Prime' setting works good for WOT - i'm not convinced! Why would you need to fill float bowls at max flow rate? A reasonable dribble will do the job in about 30 seconds. If so, fuel starvation is a possibility in your case ie. when you need the flow into the bowls it ain't there! 145 MJ's probably fitted to cope with the free flow K&N's - more air needs more fuel! You could source some screw in nipples to make a vacuum line connection to the inlet rubbers / adapter plates / or even into the carb bodies.

I believe Yam R6's and R1's use Jel types - what size - I don't know but based on the bike, fairly small I guess? That Lithium pack above is a pretty good find and they are ridiculously powerful for their size but factor in a dedicated charger (just in case!) Had a check on Yuasa site - https://www.yuasabatteries.com/battery/ytz10s/?vehicle_type=motorcycle&vehicle_make=yamaha&vehicle_year=2010&vehicle_model=yzf-r6-excl-r6s&vehicle_id=31147 A bit bigger in width but shorter in height?

Thanks - I've never seen one up close hence the Q. Plus the bracing looked 'DIY' but obviously isn't!

What about a gel type on its side in the tailpiece ?

No need if the engine is std. Most jet kits are designed to work with all the parts provided - selective parts use could lead to odd problems.

LOLs - Project Binky should be required viewing for any modification project - even for a simple bracket!

What frame is that?

You might just squeeze a YTZ7S in there, they are rated at about 5-6Ah. Which, personally, I wouldn't fit to a moped ! A Turbo with extra electrical loads - Nah !

Why not! Make a cardboard air box in place AND that you can get out without chopping the frame up, glass it up with a few layers, cut holes for rubbers and glass in some mounting brackets - jobs a goodun. To get rid of the cardboard after its all set up, just soak in water and it'll virtually dissolve. Fitting in baffles / filters might be a head scratch time but not impossible? Course you could do it in metal but cheap and cheerful costs a lot less if it goes pete tong!

When on Eblag page, just right click on mouse and select 'Translate' - may not be perfect but generally close enough!

How do you know that? When you said 'backfire', I was imagining a bang from the exhaust! That 'tick' is deffo carb related and usually symptomatic of a lean condition. That is so small meaning jetting is nearly right, worse cases are proper bangs and can blow the filters off! Try taking the filters off (they should be oiled btw if K&N - which would richen mixture a tiny bit) and see if the problem is worse? Or wrap masking tape around filter, blocking half of the filter area and try that - the airflow reduction should increase the mixture. All solved with a jet change ie. up on the idle jet! Otherwise book a dyno session that has a AFR meter and do it properly rather than guesswork.

Dayco radiator canvas / rubber hose used to be used in racing and turbo installs - don't use silicone type pipe as it's too slippery!

Good enough?

Not so! Both types fitted through the years. A set of 750 carbs might be 'able' to fit a 550 but getting it to run correctly is another issue!

I believe the 493 rods are known as 'Katana' rods and maybe originally from the homologated 1000cc engine. They are the 'go to' rods in drag race engines.

Maybe things have changed since I last needed an air shifter - MRE air or Highpower Nitrous types. The nitrous one was a bit quicker but it did have 900 psi behind the ram! I guess I didn't consider the preload systems - no experience of them! But can see the advantage

That's pretty short for most boxes - usually between 60 - 70ms works well. Shorter can risk missed shifts.

You are probably in a minority of one with that statement! Jet sizes you advise are masking how badly the carbs are working!