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Gixer1460

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Everything posted by Gixer1460

  1. Honestly 40's are too big for the 1100M / N and they are a bitch to set up. If you want to keep the torque monster feel of the GSX - go with 36mm CV's - 36mm RS flaties even better!
  2. I think you've got your KG's confused with your lb's - no way is a Buell 880lbs! And at 440lbs its a bit lighter than a std GSXR - not a lot but you've added 10-15 kgs of turbo stuff!
  3. So?........................which bit gave up its life in pursuit of sub 10 seconds......valve, head gasket or piston?
  4. Its a brave (or foolish) man that rides a 200+hp turbo bike with a single front brake - which are you?
  5. Gixer1460

    Coils

    Thank you sir! - I aim to please!
  6. Whatever they are - i'd use Viton types to be fuel safe. Doesn't seem to be a Suzuki spare part but Allens List Mikuni O rings if you know the size and thickness?
  7. Even better Robinsons list them.......http://www.robinsonsfoundry.co.uk/content/pages/shop/parts/Suzuki/GS/GS750/B-DB 1977/gs750boilpump.htm £61 and change - but they need to order so don't hold your breath! But OSS still gets discount - I believe 10%? But of course you also need the corresponding clutch drive gear.......http://www.robinsonsfoundry.co.uk/content/pages/shop/parts/Suzuki/GS/GS750/B-DB 1977/gs750bclutch.htm Which will be another £73 and change and a wait. So about £120 all in new - I think i'd be scouring Eblag!
  8. Hate to say this but WON soli's are the daddies especially if you want pulse control.
  9. If its stock then the stock carb settings are what it needs but if you want to mod it, then particularly with an exhaust - do not think cheap cos you'll probably spend money to achieve stock power.......or less! Check the plates on race bike exhausts - they don't use them as a fashion statement!
  10. Sorry didn't realise the aftermarket sources had dried up - I think it was APE that produced them and everyone else packed them under their own label. They aren't a complicated gear and always in demand so your M8 may have a niche market if he can produce them around the $100 point !
  11. The factory 'claimed' 145hp @ 10,000 rpm - usually at the crank - should translate to about 130 - 135bhp at wheel! I believe some of the european markets had restricted outputs - France, I think is 100bhp @ wheel so would tie in to what the dyno sheet says?
  12. Suzuki never used forged pistons till the watercooled engines arrived so that info is suspect - sorry, and not sure about the GSX750 oil pump gears as that was a plain bearing crank and used a different pump / relief valve to get the = 60psi pressures required. The GS gears everyone wants - just get new from Schnitz! 235hp from a stockish GSX and a Rajay - must have been boosting its tits off ! ! !
  13. Gixer1460

    Coils

    On a normal ignition bike - nothing! On something with a bit of sophistication and aftermarket ECU and a cam trigger you can have sequential fueling and ignition sparking. The COP's do seem to be able to fire quite rich through to quite lean mixtures without fouling or burning plugs up. With the COP diagram above - COPs in series as shown will give correct resistance but at half the voltage! I'd parallel wire the COP's and add a 5 or 6 ohm 10w resistor in parallel also = corrected resistance and full volts. That'll give 2.8- 3.2 ohm total load on the ignition per side (using 1.8ohm COP's for example)
  14. The original 1052 sumps were flat and had oil connections to the lower side - obviously you'll need the correct pick-up and cooler hoses but that's sort of the only option?
  15. Gixer1460

    Coils

    I'd be tempted to use something like a Ford Monoblock 4 post coil - cheaper than Dyna's, dead reliable and perfect for wasted spark! Stick COP's can be used with a Dyna / Dyna 2000 as long as you add a resistor to up the total resistance to 3.0 ohms per stick which is happy with dyna and OEM CDI's
  16. Please don't use EBC's with a turbo - dunno what it is but they plain don't work - they slip and burn up too easy! I've had Barnett Kevlars in my 1186 for ages and they worked great when NA but are quite grabby with the turbo. I've got a lock-up fitted so can use std / soft springs which was good when racing and handled the power (210hp) fine. Used OEM fibres and steels on some stupidly powerful engines and can take abuse with plain lock-ups and slider clutch set-ups!
  17. Without being too obvious - GSXR 1100 K or L or Mk1 GSF1200 Airbox rubbers! Doh! Or use silicone tube - plenty flexible!
  18. Why judge anything? Zero the trip meter - run bike to reserve - work out relative capacities of normal and reserve and you'll have potential range. Just zero trip every time you fill up and you cant go wrong. Never had a fuel gauge and never run out!
  19. Probably won't work at all! GSXR sensor only worked when uncovered / in air. I'm not sure how they function, if NO or NC but it certainly isn't a variable output that the Bandit gauge needs.
  20. Fookin' hell do you cut yerself - you is sharp!
  21. Not surprised something melted - you've got two 15A, one 20A and two 10A's in there - they are all supposed to be 10A's! Taking that connector wrapped in masking tape as an example, i'd reckon you've got deeper electrical issues to sort first - its why the correct rating fuses are needed, they pop - not melt and start fires due to carrying excessive load!
  22. Or fit an ally carb top ...........and notch that!
  23. Could always use a proper bike pump like older R1 used - interupter style so doesn't over pressure the float valve. If the tap is close to the float height then gravity flow will reduce the less fuel there is in the tank and flow could diminish enough that starvation could occur on a 1260 motor @ WOT?
  24. If you are willing to possibly sacrifice a built turbo engine whilst relying on 'auto tune' then crack on. The AFR swings on a turbo engine can be so abrupt that a wideband sensor certainly isn't quick enough to catch it and actually do something about it - average response time for a LSU4 sensor is about 1/10 - 1/5 second but if controller is only scanning once per second - the engine is toast. No respectable tuner would close loop tune WOT with turbo or nitrous - just too risky! Think of all those guys that say they hear 'pinking / detonation' - that's the death knell, damage already happened by then!
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