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nikos1400

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    Crete, Greece

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  1. nikos1400
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  2. nikos1400
    Here's the question, what do people think about Mikuni RS34s on a otherwise stock 750 L motor? I don't see many topics on the subject. Is it just the (high) price which is the problem? Why or why not should I buy a set? It would be for mainly dry weather road use. Thanks
  3. nikos1400
    Crap. I just searched for "fouled plugs" and my name comes up here...LOL! About my bike, I let it sit too long I guess, waiting for some 160 main DJs to arrive and shitty weather to go. About a month or more, I don't know. Life, kids, work etc... Anyway I put the 160s in today and started it up on that old battery I had charged back then, started up OK at first but it appears I fouled at least one plug. Ordered some new plugs again, that's another 35 euro, I'm going to charge the battery before I fire up again also but I'm honestly thinking of trading the 38s in for something else. ...
  4. nikos1400
    Forgot to say thanks for the help. Plugs and battery charge it was. Also pilot screw back to DJ instructed 2,5 turns. Now to put some klms on it.
  5. nikos1400
    3135 stage 1 &3 says you can leave slide holes stock for "hard road or racing" for "better acceleration". for the L 750 it also recommends 2,5 turns out, which I might end up with after all.
  6. nikos1400
    For reference while I have the pics handy, on the left Mik 117,5 main, in the middle K 140, on the right DJ 155.
  7. nikos1400
    I haven't plugged the slides, it gives you the option to leave them open "for hard street riding or racing". I didn't want the extra fuss so I left them alone. DJ needles and emulsion tubes in of course. I actually got it started tonight. Battery charged, new spark plugs. Float bowls set to 15,5 maybe 16mm, pilot srews 1,7 turns out. I had some "lean surging" when giving a little throttle when cold, so maybe I'll try about another 1/2 turn out (??) Didn't have any more time, might test ride tomorrow. I left the DJ 155 mains, so we'll see. I noticed something that might've caused the flooding and spark plug fouling the previous time I tried to start it. The throttle cable was binding at the carb rack, which didn't let the whole set of butterflies close completely. So basically I was trying to start the bike with maybe 1/3 throttle open... I'm not sure this happened that previous time, but it's highly possible.
  8. nikos1400
    Thanks for the reply. I DO have the stage 1+3 kit for US models (750 L). The problem was 1) MY not understanding the Powerjet circuit and what was needed to begin with, 2) the mechanic not actually familiar with the Powerjet circuit. Right now I have the complete stage 3 setup installed but with the DJ155 mains instead of the DJ160 stated in the kit's instructions. These were not returned to me I've got my battery charged, and the spark plugs that were new, don't know if I flooded/short circuited them with the last try to start. New plugs on the way, but I might try to start with the refreshed battery tomorrow. Would I be able to save the plugs with a good wipe off and dry?
  9. nikos1400
    I'm trying to get permssion from the wife to spend 900+ euro on some mikuni rs34s... Would they be easier? LOL
  10. nikos1400
    You're right! But thank god for the internet and people who help other people!!
  11. nikos1400
    Thanks Steve, I guess I'm going to try and get it started to begin with, I've ordered some new spark plugs. The K140 mains (I guess Keihins?) correspond to DJ130. Dynojet states DJ160 for the stage 3 with end can, DJ155 w/ stock end can. But the mains supposedly don't affect idle and low rpm ?? Anyway, it fired up easy with powerjet circuit 100% open and K140 mains, won't start with DJ instructed plugged powerjet and DJ160s... About the float heights.... I hope I'm doing it right. I help keep the whole plastic frame seated with fingers (as if the bowl cap was screwed on), measure float height with the credit card template for 14,6mm. Floats barely seated on the needle pin without pressing it down. I might be 1mm off at max. Is it too much? Haynes says +/- 1mm.
  12. nikos1400
    capt, my haynes manual says US (except california) mains 127,5 - pilot jets 37,5 - main air jets 1 and 4 0.9mm, 2 and 3 1.2mm uk says mains 117,5 - pilot jets 32,5 - main air jets 0mm (meaning plugged) both say needle jets O-8 US (except california) jet needle 5ZDZ3 UK jet needle 6ZD7-3 It doesn't say anything about the Powerjet circuit though, which I'm not happy about...
  13. nikos1400
    Would it be THAT hard to start with the DJ stage 3 installed ?? What I did was half choke and no throttle. Nothing, then I tried a little bit of throttle, choke off....Nothing. One thing I remembered, last couple times, I did not disconnect the PITA throttle cable, and just emptied the float bowls, and turned the carbs upside down on the frame of the bike. Then took the float bowls off etc.. Would that spill fuel inside the carbs somewhere it shouldn't ??? Can't think of something else. I'll be ordering some extra spark plugs and get the battery charged or a new one...
  14. nikos1400
    Thanks for the quick replies guys 1) Assuming the only differences between country codes for the carbs is the diff spec jets inside, I should be using the US specs on my 18D0 carbs (uk, fr, nor, belg, canada, spain) to install the Dynojet stage 3 kit ("for use in US models only", DJ 3135.004). So stock jets with stock airbox would be 127,5 main, 37,5 pilot jet. US models have the powerjet plugged with zero jets (plugs) in the float bowls, am I correct here? What I mean is that is what DJ is assuming? The carbs actually had the uk spec 117,5, 35 and 6ZD7 uk spec, but that was with the airbox and all this messing about. 2) The mechanic had some "K"#140 mains installed (DJ emulsion tubes), pilot jets are/were 37,5. Float bowls without any jets in powerjet circuit, meaning free flowing (!). DJ needles on groove #2. 3) The DJ160 mains DJ says to use with the stage 3 and free flow end can, are lost...I have the DJ155 mains left which I put in now that it won't start, for stock end can. I have some DJ 120 and 124 from the stage 1 part of the kit (was the stage 1 & 3 box). 4) I checked the float height several times pretty much each time I put the carbs back together, with the cut-credit-card-template method. They might be 1mm off between them. I'd say they look pretty good. Now that you mention, what is a good way to adjust the tang without damaging it? I had to adjust one a little bit. They were changed out when I put in some float valve kits and all o-rings. They look nice and appear to be working good. I know you can't tell from a pic of course
  15. nikos1400
  16. nikos1400
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