Gixer1460

'wet sleeves' thats the phrase I was looking for ! LOL

Got no experience of water cooled blocks but would have thought your best solution is to increase water 'jacket' around the liners prior to fitting them. That and decent water distribution rather than in one end and out the other!

Used the Emtes version and got it from NLR in the States a good few years ago now. I think Stu at Warpspeed can do you one?

You've never looked inside a GSXR engine have you! They do and were designed to run with oil - in. over and around them.....Oil is an insulator and has no electrical effects on magnetic pick-ups...........NOT POINTS!

Ask when the cam chain was last done - it'll be well stretched if original could be a useful bargaining point. If the oil's been changed regular the internals can be immaculate - saw the insides of a M8's 1100L with 65k and you could still see the barrel honing marks and bearings looked new but the cam chain was as slack as a slack thing!

Agreed - there are a few 'no dizzy' solutions now that the old skool car guys are starting to use modern engines but with carbs. Dyna stuff served a purpose years back now newer and cheaper and cleverer stuff is available.

When racing, my old 1186 suffered 40 degrees advance with 10psi thrown at it! Good fuel is everything - 4* / premium unleaded. @ 0.5 bar 4 degrees could be described as overkill even with pump unleaded IMO.

Under the seat, between the frame rails with a R6 fan, switched on via oil temp switch.

This is mine,,,,,,

Yes thats the right kit - fairly universal across old Kawa's and Suzuki's! The advance / retard curve thing is a bit agricultural - true you can develop your own advance curve but the retard activation is still a fixed number dropped on top of where ever the timing is at that point. The advance curve is actually 4 or 5 points so hardly a 'curve' Just MHO and I've had 4 of them so its a strange bias if I am!

Ha! - This was the give away!....." its for drag racing not for street use " And if it was circuit / endurance racing - the number of times those guys drop their ride, it wouldn't last long, hanging out in the breeze. Running off the sprocket is a plan but I guess it would need the gearing sorted to keep the alt. rpm high enough in top gear?

Dyna 'S' or Dyna 2000? If the former you'll need to add the early GSX mechanical advancer and cover, if the latter - nothing its standalone, power, ground and connections to coils - thats it! Electricals for both is about the same.

And if your racing - why are you worried about charging a battery! Its only 30 seconds of use - charge in pits between rounds or have two and swop / charge!

or stop poncing around and bridge the starter soli with a big spanner!

I think you could call my GSXR a bit extreme for power and that uses a M basket, coil spring conversion and a regular 4 arm single stage lock up - no slip whatsoever. Std spring converted clutch has get go with only 125hp and turbo torque.

Email does work tha knows! GSXR plenty oil pressure so a dash 3 or 4 is fine and without restrictor - just use BIG drain -10 or -12 better !

Not with that crank - would need a GSXR type and the matching clutch primary gear / hub

There should be two holes either side behind the 'aerofoils' and the bolts fit from the wheel side through the fork brace into the fork stubs.

Are we really kwibbling over 1cc? Whatever if its a big motor it'll either say 1127 or something else! LOL

Unless you've changed the jetting it should run as stock! So as they've been apart, it leaves either something's still blocked, missing on reassembly or reassembled incorrectly! The pattern repair parts could be moody but just off idle, 3k is transition stage onto needle so not much in a kit to change that?

Look on the barrels it'll say either 1127 or 1157 - saves taking shit apart?

It'd fit, it may even run the engine but comparing the two together via google the ign. timing will be incorrect!

Running it in the shed (also not good for your health) without any load on it will not give a good diagnosis especially if its not been run for a while. Rings could be gummed up, carboned up valve seats etc. all could give low compression readings - its going to need some abuse first before making terminal judgement

Personally i've built two turbo bikes, one suck through, one blow through, one 210hp the other 370hp and both with internal gates but have been around numerous others as well. I see the benefits of external gates but i'd say they are of more benefit on really big output motors that need the ultimate in tight power control, ie. racing. An internal gate can be ported to flow better and more consistently but they are definitely the 'poor' relation - mind you I've seen some rubbish external gate installs / positioning, so it has to be considered as well.

As in, it will be towards the top end of its (the turbo's) performance envelope where efficiency starts dropping off and so inlet charge heat increases due to increasing the relative boost to maintain the airflow. Most turbo installations never rev out like their N/A cousins - mine had a 10,500 hp peak as N/A but as a turbo, makes its peak at between 8,500 and 9,000 - they are fuckin' torque monsters. If that ickle 400 works ....... it'll feel like a well tuned 600 or average 750 at a guess! - and it won't rev itself to bits either!