fatblokeonbandit

That’s it exactly, Dunc, we were all having a right hoot….

This ones abit more entertaining

Undo the nut and swop them over they are normally centre popped to peen the thread over a bit so they don't come undone,

Or could it have been the talent, skill and good looks of the Bandit rider that made it look so easy

Yup done it loads of times, not on my high comp engines but standard ones no problem. as long as the gaskets undamaged and very clean and degreased, 5 coats of Halfords primer each side and off you go.. no guarantees but I’ve not had one leak yet base gaskets as

its a catch can with filter on top comes from the breather on top of rockerbox.. i have similar on my b12.. and a big one on my Moto martin, really cheap from chinaland..

That one had brand new J&E pistons, the engine in my teapot with the same output was a second hand wiesco set. A bit snug, 1216 in a 750

When I first built the engine 12 years ago, I had 40 mm mikky roonies on it and it made 152 after setting up on a dyno, but they were a pain, tick over was never stable and they were always going out of balance!! I fitted the standard carbs with Ramair filters And Holeshot racing carb kit from Dale Walker, they have been spot on ever since, all I’ve done to the engine since are oil changes, clean carbs a couple of times, tappets and a new clutch.. Still pulls like a train and able to hold its own on track days

Yes... as long as you fix the supenders as well 149.8RWHP

Yup same callipers, the master cylinder will work but the angle on the clipons will be wrong as the B12 M/C mount is made for straight bars

My 3rd engine is a standard bore with High Comp pistons from Dale Winton, same head work and cams and exhaust and it feels totally different not been o. Dyno yet but definitely revs more freely but dosent have the torque out of bends, yes it was a saving but not much they cost the. Same as 1216 pistons

Binned them as you don’t want oil coming out By the way did you know someone’s wrapped carpet round your exhaust

Exactly, I’ve got 2 150 rwhp motors on Standard 36mm mikky roonies spend the money on cams head work and 1216 kit before flatside

I’ve had a couple that have cracked across from the bolt holes to the o ring groove….

It is a bit but you get comp and rebound damping as well as fully adjustable preload I’m 18 atone and needed a slightly stiffer spring to get 25 mm of sag

Yes, is it a Mark 1 or mark 2 bandit shock as they are differnat lengths. Ive used K7/8 1000 shocks on abouit 12 or more of the B12's ive owned all mark 1's.. my shiny heron one has one on with a stiffer spring for the larger gentelman

EXCELLENT

Yes because we all know a bandit cant be made to turn in, Steer or handle, don't we

I had an R6 gel on in the seat of me 'arris, apparently it was an LT12B-4???? according to the Tanya website I do remember there wasnt a lot of room and it was laid down..

£319 for a battery!! plus £113.40 for the tray!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The whole bike above didn't cost much more than that.

years ago i built ths b12 below, then i found out i had limited space for a battery, in the garage i had a CBR400 gull arm so nicked the battery as it was alot smaller, worked fine cranking it over, kept it on an optimate though..

first mod I was advised to do to My TL when I started racing it was, fit a 600 SRAD 5.5 inch rear with a 180 55, to make it turn quick, and it did

Heres one I made 12 years ago, 6 inch rear end from a k 4 1000 I think,, the sprocket offset is the same though, 2 mm spacer under sprocket to end of spline, turned rear sprocket over and gained 2 mm, turned 5 mm off the carrier spacer and trimmed the rubbers so it moved to starboard 5 mm, that made 9 mm to the right , chain cleared frame and just cleared the tyre, looked good but was definitely to fat as it turned slower than with 180 rear.

I’ve said it before, but I think it’s worth saying again……. Bugger me that’s shiny….