fatblokeonbandit

I was changing the spring in my Teapots forks to something more fitting an adult sized person, 1.1kg/mm instead of the puny 0.8 kg/mm standard springs.. anyway i realised i had 3 types of forks sat here, so pinched the wifes new Baking scales and did some weighing... Ive just got over the bollocking as i left them in the garage covered in fork oil. anyway the table is below. GSXR750 K4 forks and yokes total 9.26KG not 8.26 as written!!!!! GXR750 L/M forks and yokes total 11.27 KG so 2 full kilos heavier....

Mark Hammond has done several fro me, good bloke and from Wiltshire the cosmic centre of then universe,,, http://www.mhracing.com/

Id ask in wanted here first..

item 13 chain buffer... £43 fek my old boots!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! on Robinsons 61273-27A00

Give us a clue, which bike is that one from??????? dosent look like a Bandit, Slingshot or slabby one???

Ive been called a few things in my time, but thats a new one.. Glad to be of assistance matey

Yes the cable clutch cover will bolt straight on, but the push rods are diferant, can't remember the length you need I had to make one, one of them is too long and can be ground down to,fit..

There are only 3 plugs from the engine to the loom, the signal generator should be the same, one red 2 wire plug for the pick up and a single wire for the oil pressure switch, they will plug in, the alternators should be the same so no need to swap them over just plug in and attache the earth wire, the neutral switch I think are different, the early one will be one wire and the later one 3 wires, just swap the switches over and that itand of course the power to the starter but thats the same,

I take it you mean swop the 600 engine for the 1200 engine.....?????? Is the 600 a Mark 1 2000 or Mark 2 2000 as that was the change over year.. if they are both mark 2's, its easier, the alternator can be used but you need to swop the drive gears over as they have different number of teeth. The ignition pick up's are compatible, so is the rest of the loom and switch gear. Like Zed said the rev limiter will be ok as the 1200 motor struggles to get to the red line anyway..or just swop CDI's as they fit.. If the 600 is a year 2000 Mark 1 one, then you need to swop the alternators, ignition pick ups and neutral switch,

Fivers??? Fibers???? 8..

That's what's on mine, 45 quid for a Chinese 19 row cooler and a few quid for torques fittings, ill find pics later

Jim before spending piles of cash on go faster bits, spend £15 on a manual

B12 rod is 80 mm 1127 is 100 or 102 mm depending on year

It was in 2004 so I didn’t know about rubbers and stuff I just bolted the head and cams in, using std b12 cam wheels and pushed the tit it started and went like fek so I was happy ......

He’s right you know....

This was the first one I did, in this picture the dot head wasnt on it but all i did was swop the head and all the rest fitted as before. except the tank wouldn't go on, so I had to fit a pingle to give the clearance between the carb top and tap, this is due to the steeper inlet tract angle,

The 2 bikes I used dot head motors, one had standard b12 mk1 down pipes and sump went straight in, the other one I had micron gsxr 1100 down pipes and fitted once I swooped sumps, I don't remember any problems with fitting either of them, I'll try and find pics, but it was a while ago It was the inlet side that was a pain with carb, fuel tap interface issues..

I used a modified krapasaki 600 front spindle as its 20 mm with the right sized end bits, it needed shortening a bit and the thread lengthening but it's in there and works fine with speedo drive and everything

I’ve got 2015 busa forks and slinky wheel on my b12 I used sling discs with some spacers made from old disc centres I can’t remember exactly what size I turned them Dow to but I can measure them when I get home in Friday

Front or rear...?? 25 front 28 rear

But as captain chaos said the late ones are different, I haven't any idea which ones I had early or late model,??

1100G shfty carbs and 750 teapot rubbers..