nlovien

got a set of 36mm - part dyna moded - set up on dyno for a std 1100L motor with a noisy exhaust and twin KN filters - if you want to play with them - see how it runs to help provide a bench mark - i'll not need them this yr given the pace my projects are not progressing so yir welcome for a "borrow"

i'll vouch for cam float on a gs1000 - observed as previously noted - move the bike from side stand to upright and it comes and goes - my foggy memory from a long time ago is - sounds like a random dull knock, where as a worn bucket has more of a consistent higher frequency rattle

MS006 with 55mm stack length is what I use - interesting discussions in this post, the question " can anyone show actual erosion / debris wear " running unfiltered - or effect of air entry restriction into the stack - can only offer my own experience I've observed screwing up the carburation by fitting tea strainers to stacks on 33mm mikuni smoothbores - possibly could have tuned it out but simply run without - great - run same set up with and crap I've not observed short term wear damage - forsure I'd presume long term accelerated wear but actually gauge this ? dunno - recon a wet carb left to let fuel creep into the head/bore probably causes more damage Erosion wear shouldn't be an issue, if I recall port flow is optimised at around half erosion velocity - ok there will be accelerated flow across valve seats as valves open which could cause wear but its not something i've observed Carbon build up that then gets displaced - clean air in - make micro deposits inside combustion chamber - rattle this about and flow it out the ex - the best filtered air ending up contaminated is std practise carbs! - big yes, erosion yes, sticking due to fine debris yes - basically filter for the benefit of the carbs - definitely yes free still air at stack entry coupled with smooth radioused entry ? this is not bike specific, this is common gas flow - laminar versus turbulent flow issues - and its back to the gas velocity for effect - the higher the velocity the greater chance of turbulence = pressure = less flow - valuable fine tuning stuff which may show only when up at the high flow demand - will have more effect if you run smaller ID / longer stacks - ok so more important on say 33mm carbs versus 38mm feeding the same engine - - basically this is inline with why a plenum or airbox

jees thats huge - thanks

interesting i'm also looking to extend a set of slabby 750 forks - what do you gain by fitting the power screen stanchions / thanks

most enjoyable to watch this develop, the F1 lurking in the background - now in process of going through this build post

pop in past huntly with the frame and i'll weld it up for yi - cost yi a 4 pack of rowies - 2 each - if you don't have transport I can pick it up next time up Elgin way

i'm probably miss reading the pic but it looks like you don't have steering lock stops ? - if not - you could add these to the oil cooler bracket design

that's daft cheap -long live china - a few cuts with a hacksaw and a half decent jubilee will clamp em up - if needed, probably when the thread for the grubs disappears

oilyspanner gets my vote - more ignition during part throttle / load via a programmable ignition - fitting a throttle position sensor ( easy these days) coupled with a crank position sensor ( or cam) - my experience with a 5 deg fixed advancer on a gsxr1100L motor - yes a bit more sparkle but no more than a touch leaner on the main jet - kinda like "dyno says X jet - bum says prefer a tad richer"

as your keen as mustard to get out there - suggest you give it a good spray over with ACF50 - will help to keep it as clean as it presently is

wow! - everything - you are creating something special there

imagination is free, however woman were invented when blokes sat on the fence toooo long for the ladies - no derogative intent intended

as said by all, dam't fine tribute and it possesses a touch of magic, looks like the carbs grew to match the inlet ports - mind passing on the engine build spec

i'm liking the whole set up- the adjustable offset and the way its pinned both top and bottom - thanks for posting the detail

one thing to watch out for on any older (used) bike engine ref: ignition is for any wear where the ignition rotor is pinned to the crank - any feel of movement before you nip up the bolt can easily cause a 5 deg shift on base timing value ( the pre set ignition advance is relative to the base value)

och yir just up the road - used to run and party with a few lads from Elgin area - mind that was back in the days when a GS1000 was main stream and a TS250 was for beginners i'm getting close with a project that will need a fresh paint - would you be interested

Scotland + got a great attitude with bikes + yi can paint - - gets a triple fae me - where in Scotland are you ps no laughing - got a lot of respect for those who give it a go - good on yi, even if its half baked its still better than a cheque book charlie

can't nail it - its kinda a cross between Dennis the Menace and a touch of the Papa Lazarou about it certainly got a look

what a breath of fresh air seeing folks doing / discussing proper stuff on a bike forum - I can imagine maybe 3 typical replies you would get on other ones 1) whats a sprocket or 2) ohh I wouldn't be doing that - all sorts of horrible things are going to happen if you do 3) cool - where can I also buy this cam timing you speak of

aye fond memories flat oot on a mates gs750 ( i'd just stepped up to a TS250) fook this things scary quick then another mate went past on his GS1000 sooo life's progress by passed the 750 enjoy yours

once you've got decent handling to your liking ( sounds like you do ) - on my list next would be a decent set of carbs - a set of smoothbores in replacement of CV,s - £400 marginal but should be enough to go fishing for 2nd hand set - good thing is you gain on immediate fitment plus they add to any future development - and they are cost recoverable when you come to sell on

without knowing your reasons why and what i'm in the johnr camp - if your not into track days - still focus handling and tyres - stuff for free is drop the forks 5 to 10mm, for not a lot adjustable dogbones to let you play with rear ride height, a 3 tooth larger rear sprocket to give you some free performance and if yir tyres are good then look for a half decent rear shock

aye Tony, the templates work when you know where your going and you can jig bend in 3D and replicate parts to an exact template when you have a curved cross brace that is going to miter into 3 different locations or your shaping tube by eye in 3D from a 2D paper template - a nibble here and a nibble there as you work the pipe in is the only way I can get it to work lacking the patience to design on paper, then build jigs to enable transfer of design into metal - i.e. think twice cut once - na, cut once, cut twice - scrap it and start again until it works

recently had same clash of brake with hub issue - got a disc made for not a lot that was 20 mm bigger OD - sorted ( using the gsxr 240mm disc hanger versus the 220mm ) only benefit i've found ref: eccentrics = handy rear ride height adjuster - quite handy but a bit of flaffing about with chains and sprocket selection to make it work