Reinhoud

Didn't read any replies... Can't you make the lever on the engine/clutch longer?

All you need is a block of aluminium, a mill and an someone who can weld aluminium... Or am I thinking too simple?

Does Robinjo owns this bike now?

No clue how it goes with a GSX engine, but with my GS engine I had to remove material from the crankcases to allow for the bigger sleeves. I made a disc, one side had the diameter from the stock base gasket, the other side had the outside diameter of the bigger sleeves. Put the disc and the base gasket over/on the crankcases, draw a line on the crankcases, and start removing material with a barrel grinder. This is slow process, took me about an hour per cylinder. With this disc you can also draw lines on the geasket to cut it out to the right size to use it on the cylinders. To cut it out I use nail clippers.

I've got a 1247cc big bore on my GS1000, with mine I had to put some liquid gasket around the sleeves / cylinderblock. The O-rings didn't fit anymore. Used an artist brush to get it where I wanted it. No clue how this is with different brands

No!! I do put grease on the gasket, mostly so it doesn't stick to the engine parts, and hopefully it can be used again... Sometimes it can, sometimes it can't

Some experience from me.. Long time ago I owned a Suzuki DR500, off roader. I wanted to raise the rear, the front was already raised with the USD front forks from a RM250. I sat on the bike, had a mate measure how much the rear dropped, measured the distance from the bolts of the shocks. Made up wooden sticks with the dimensions of the shocks when I sit on the bike.. Made brackets to mount the shocks in at the rear forks. Installed the wooden sticks with the bottom brackets bolted on it. Jacked up the bike that far that the chain still ran freely over the rear forks, and welded the brackets on. To, a little bit, of my surprise this worked perfectly!! I was a bit afraid that with the changed angle of the shocks it would make a difference, but I could neglect this.. I hope this can help you out a bit

I can hardly read it on my computer.. Bit better on my phone.

Oil leak is fixed! Thanks guys!

The print out isn't very clear, printout was clearer on my phone..

How high does yours rev? Didn't look properly... About 11.000 by the looks of it

It's installed, wasn't a fun job, I hate f-ing around with those lines.. Because of the length of the valve I was limited in choice where to put it. Know in a couple of days if it does it's job

When the bike is straight up the scavenge is above oil level. In the past I did have a check valve in the line, but they always stuff up after a while, and I don't think the scavenge sucks hard enough to open the check valve I have now...

It's not smoking, it starts leaking after a couple of days. The tank is that big because I thought it wasn't big enough, this is the 3rd tank, bit bigger every time.

This is the valve

No pressure at all...

I bought a set of Raask for my 1000, didn't like the position of the pegs, so I modified it a bit..

Got the check valve in the other day. Also got the connections to install it in the feed line, now find the motivation to put it in

Anyone here who actually measured the bores after getting it back from the machine shop? If yes, how accurate was it?

And then hope the machine shop actually gets it at the right size...

https://www.Eblag.com.au/itm/174077174076 https://www.Eblag.com.au/itm/154213664881 Both seem to be ok. I did have troubles with aftermarket valve cover gaskets in the past, after that I always bought the OEM ones, but no problems with these.

Yes it does, you just need more RTV