Reinhoud

Thanks, could you hear it on idle?

How loud was your piston slap?

Are you going to make a monoshock? If yes, weld the top connection point for the spring in it before you do the swingarm bushes. The same if you want to reinforce the frame. Swingarm bushes as last.

That would be a job where you have the frame, swing arm bushes and lathe present, so you can make the flanges at the right thickness.

Dutch bikes were unrestricted.

I'm pretty sure German bikes were restricted to 100hp. But with the GSX1100 that was about the max HP

I only have a photo from the build. Cut about 6 mm from the tubes, weld plate in it covering both tubes, weld plate on the outside for extra reinforcement. Als weld some flatbar horizontally.. I was afraid it wouldn't be strong enough, so I probably went overboard a little. Keep in mind that the swingarm goes up and down, allow for this.

I've got a 5.5" rim with a 190 tyre in my GS1000 with Bandit swingarm. But I needed to modify the frame to allow for the chain.

It's turbocharged

20 year old carburfuckingettors will be 20 years younger as what's on it now I'll see if I can find something useful..

I've got a 1247cc big bore on my GS1000, JE pistons and the recon company stuffed up, so I have a lot of piston clearence, more then 0.10mm. JE made the pistons too big for the bore size I provided, and the piston clearance they recomend, and then the recon company machined the vore a bit bigger then the maximum clearance JE recomends.. Which more modern Suzuki has a 34 or 36 mm carburetor?

Anyone here experienced rattling carburetors on their GS / GSX with CV carburfuckingettors? I have a rattle, and I don't think it's the engine. Rattle follows the valve train revs, sounds more plasticy then metallic. As soon as I go off the throttle it's gone. It's louder in 4th gear at 80 than 5th gear at 100 Gone when I open up the throttle more Do carburetors from a Bandit or GSXR fit, or can be made to fit, on a GSX1100 / GS1000? Thanks

Finished

How it looks from the inside.

Right is the stack I made. Left next to it is what I had, bit smaller than the carburettor.

I've got my bike on the road again, haven't really given it to it. Made a plenum what is roughly 160cc bigger, and made velocity stacks in it. The bike reacts way more enthusiastic on the throttle. May post photo's later

Depends on the turbo, but recon kits for a turbo aren't expensive.. A rebuild kit for mine is actually half of what a set of those sprockets will set you back.

You won't get more pressure! More flow probably, but the pressure wil not rise noticable. Make a reduction in the oil galley to the gearbox is also a trick. Extra heat you'll fix with an oil cooler.

That's what I thought too, but then, the GS/GSX engines have not even 1 psi pressure, the camshafts do fine on that, as long as there's oil in a steady supply it's alright.. Turbo is a different story, apparently..

Fuel is leaking when fuel pump is running? Lower the pressure to about 1.5psi

I've done some experimenting with different gear ratio's and wider oil pumps. As soon as the engine is at operating temperature, there's aboslutely f*ck all of oil pressure., no matter what gear ratio or how wide the pump is. Keep in mind, the pressure is mostly determent by the resistance in the oil channels, or how big the holes at the ends are. As long as that's not changed you hardly win anything. Assuming we're talking about a rollerbearing engine, don't worry about is, there's nothing in the engine what needs pressure, as long as it's lubricated you should be fine.

Your carburetors are faulty, the float needles should seal off the fuel supply.

https://www.caferacerwebshop.com/en/suzuki-750-1100-katana-rear-set.html

When I had mine going I was running 2psi fuel pressure, for some reason the float needles started leaking after a while and had to drop the pressure to 1.5 psi.